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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 5:53 pm 
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Paladin1 wrote:
Ahh, the joys of owning a classic!

Stick with it, it's looking good. It will entice drools from all the cool kids.


LOL, a "classic" I could have driven right off the assembly line when I was in high school. It's a lot of fun having a project truck!


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 7:08 pm 
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TravisM.1 wrote:
Neville wrote:
A new battery was needed, but I believe the alternator needs replaced too. I am pulling it out tonight and taking it for testing. If that's all that's needed, it's not a difficult fix.


Get it to start, then pull the positive battery cable off the battery. If it dies, you've got alternator/regulator/rectifier troubles.

True but this is awful rough on the diodes, try this use a DC volt meter put the positive lead on the battery and the negative lead on the negative post while its running it will show the voltage it should be at least 13.7


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 12:29 pm 
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post necro'd!
That 345 is the same engine that goes into their school bus....
btw..it was the scout 2 that had the removable top.
had a '74 scout 2 what a beast

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 12:59 pm 
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SteveD wrote:
post necro'd!


LOL, not a "necro" just an extended conversation on the same topic!

It will be one year to the day tomorrow that I have had this Scout II and been working on getting it roadworthy and reasonably functional. It seems like there is a never-ending list of things to be done. Right now I am on the lookout to see if I can score a factory wheel because this vehicle came to me without a spare tire, and I would like to be able to work the spare into the rotation and for that, it must fit the factory hub caps.

Now baby needs an oil and filter change! And the coolant leak-heater valve fix I mentioned earlier...


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 2:06 am 
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you may know already but IHONLYNORTH is up in N. Cal. good people, and thats getting hard to say about IH vendors these days.

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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2011 4:07 pm 
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beast1210 wrote:
you may know already but IHONLYNORTH is up in N. Cal. good people, and thats getting hard to say about IH vendors these days.


Yes, I do know them! and actually had transacted some business when they were here local before their move up to Grass Valley - have been up there too, to the new facillity. Hoping to score a rim for a spare tire from them, as my truck came without one. Also hoping to have them assist with gas tank @ custom stainless fuel line replacement. Spendy but necessary, I'm afraid.


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PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2011 8:33 pm 
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Probabley won't do you any good but a lot of guys around here still own Scouts since they worked on the line for years .

http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/pts/2321072333.html

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 1:14 pm 
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Image

Installed an extended range fuel tank. Before = 19 gallons, after = 33 gallons. Range comparison above is hypothetical and not to be taken too literally, but should provide some sense of proportion.

A little math shows the preparedness benefits:
Quote:
pi * r^2 = A
With the original gas tank:

19 gallons @ 12 mpg = 228 linear miles per tank of gas

228^2 = 228 * 228 = 51984

A1 = 163,308 square miles


With the new, larger tank:

33 gallons @ 12 mpg = 396 linear miles per tank of gas

396^2 = 396 * 396 = 156816

A2 = 492,637 square miles



difference in possible destinations:

302% so this potentially triples my number of reachable destinations on a single tank.
In actuality, it will be less than that because we cannot drive in straight lines in an infinite number of directions. But there is an increase and it is not insignificant.


Fuel gauge still not working despite new sending unit in the tank. Must be wiring or gauge. Narrowing it down!

Windshield washer pump was leaking (the pump itself). New pump is on hand and the tank is ready to get re-installed.

Need a coolant system flush BAD. Have a set of radiator hoses and a new heater valve on hand, should get those all taken care of at the same time. Hell, let's toss in a set of drive belts while we're at it. That way we won't be worrying about 30 year old rubber giving out on us on the trail.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2011 1:02 pm 
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Windshield fluid resovoir was unexpectedly turning up empty. Figured the line or the tank had a leak... nope, upon further inspection it was the PUMP itself that had a leak... odd, because the pump seemed to work fine. New pump motor obtained from the local Kragen auto store (same day as ordered, amazing) and the washer fluid system works like new again. Glad it was $15 for a pump and not $100 for a tank. I suppose the motor is a "wear part" and expected to need replacing at some point, vs the tank which is a stationary part and expected to last the life of the truck. Now I can wipe the bugs off the windshield on long country drives... yee haw.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2011 2:24 pm 
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I had a 1977 model Opel once and it blew out it´s coolant pump bearing on the Autobahn, resulting in loosing at least half the coolant and the engine getting real hot.... at least i had a second pump at home.

Oh, the joy of old cars! :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 1:08 pm 
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I was able to obtain a factory wheel and as a bonus it came with a tire on it! Woohoo!

I have replacement gauges for fuel and for oil pressure on hand and the gauge clusters removed from the dash to perform the installation. Had to paint the new gauge needles to match the others (which had been severely sun-faded and were touched up earlier in the restoration process). Hopefully this weekend all gauges will be reinstalled and I'll have an actual visual on all the major goings-on with the vehicle. Driving without a fuel gauge is a real nail-biter. And an oil gauge in a 30 year old truck that perpetually reads zero isn't exactly calm-inducing, either. Looking forward to some peace of mind while driving this truck!

ETA- ok, it looks like I neglected to post progress on some other work that was done... All coolant hoses under the hood have been replaced, and the heater valve (old one was rusty and difficult). Several engine oil and t-fluid leaks fixed. A freeze plug was rusted & leaking - it's been replaced. Water pump replaced. All very important in a SHTF/BOV -type vehicle. If it's not reliable, it's not usable. Getting there!


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 3:16 pm 
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Glad to see you back on this.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 3:38 pm 
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Heh, well, I've had a lot of irons in the fire (still do). Remodeled/refurnished the den/office, getting my progressive press set up, extra hours at work (unpaid, unfortunately), helping the wife gear up for completing the last class for her degree (succeeded!), taking an anniversary trip with wife to celebrate (to a 150 year old mountain hotel and gun rights conference), studying for my next professional certification exam and trying to get squared away for 3 defensive firearms courses I am trying to take before year's end. Oh, and one entire evening devoted to enjoying vodka and peppermint schnapps.

Glad to be back tinkering on the truck though, I have missed it. And it's great having an extra vehicle working... that takes a lot of pressure off the worries of having a car in the shop. Hope you're having fun with your Misery Machine!


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 5:53 pm 
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Glad you are back at it.

Oh, moar pix PloX?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 12:56 pm 
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New gauges installed - I now have a working fuel gauge!! Feeling VERY good about that. The oil pressure gauge is acting funny though... the needle goes WAY high (past H) and then gradually sinks back to nothing and stays there. That's not the oil system. So I have a new sending unit on order, hopefully that will fix it.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2011 4:55 am 
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Neville wrote:
New gauges installed - I now have a working fuel gauge!! Feeling VERY good about that. The oil pressure gauge is acting funny though... the needle goes WAY high (past H) and then gradually sinks back to nothing and stays there. That's not the oil system. So I have a new sending unit on order, hopefully that will fix it.

Congrats and OMGWTFBBQ?!

Good luck on the oil gauge.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:01 pm 
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Awesome rig. I love Scouts. My dad has had one since I was a kid, and I've always wanted one. I'm going to look at a '64 Scout 80 in a couple of hours.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 23, 2011 2:43 am 
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Neville wrote:
Windshield fluid resovoir was unexpectedly turning up empty. Figured the line or the tank had a leak... nope, upon further inspection it was the PUMP itself that had a leak... odd, because the pump seemed to work fine. New pump motor obtained from the local Kragen auto store (same day as ordered, amazing) and the washer fluid system works like new again. Glad it was $15 for a pump and not $100 for a tank. I suppose the motor is a "wear part" and expected to need replacing at some point, vs the tank which is a stationary part and expected to last the life of the truck. Now I can wipe the bugs off the windshield on long country drives... yee haw.


Mine was rotted through, so I went with a Military canteen ;)


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 23, 2011 2:03 pm 
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Heh, thanks for sharing, that was fun.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 3:03 pm 
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The new sending unit for the oil pressure arrived and I got it installed... works perfectly!

ALL OF THE GAUGES ARE FULLY FUNCTIONAL FOR THE FIRST TIME!!!!

however....

I suspect I royally screwed something up this time putting them back in. The truck battery is dead, and even after a jump and running it plenty to get the battery charged back up - it's still dead a day later. It never did that prior to this most recent bit of gauge-tinkering.

Maybe get a chance to fiddle with it over this weekend. Been busy lately, wife recovering from knee surgery and everything she usually handles has fallen on my shoulders... along with waiting on her hand and foot. Oh well, that's what tru-luv is all about, right?


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 6:19 pm 
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There must have been a wire rubbing somewhere...

I took the gauges out, inspected everything, put them back in... now there's no problem and the battery has held a charge for many days.

Oh the joys of 30 year old vehicles!

Currently I'm working to get silicone caulk off the Terra top. After that, some paint maybe.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 7:49 am 
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I love electrical issues.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 4:13 pm 
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Ok... so where are we so far in this project?

Brakes - completely replaced entire brake system except shoes (which were fine) - check.
Carburetor - completely rebuilt - check.
Ignition system - new coil, plug wires, cap, rotor and spark plugs - check.
New fuel pump - check.
New gas tank, sensor and rubber lines - check.
All gauges refurbished for extra light, fresh needle paint, replaced two that were just plain not working.
All new radiator and heater hoses under the hood - check.
New heater valve - check.
New windshield washer pump/motor - check.
Replaced transmission shift lever boot and ran light to shifter housing (displays park/drive/neutral/reverse)
New headlight switch - check.
New battery and new alternator - check.
Repaired fucktard dash wiring job of previous owner that had main charging circuit on a toggle switch of all things - check.
Various fluid leaks (freeze plug, engine oil, transfer case, rear axle) fixed (new seals/gaskets mostly) - check.
New water pump - check.
New aftermarket side mirrors - check.
All dash and exterior lights & indicators brought to working condition (bulbs mostly) - check.
One metric fuckton of minor body work and conversion to Terra/Traveler with swap/top - check.
Acquired spare tire & wheel - check.

Wow, would you believe there's a TRUCK in there somewhere? LOL!

Ok, next up on the list - the manual 4x4 front hubs have been seized tight since the day I got this truck, and it's time for that to change. Just made the appointment today to get it looked at by an axle service shop here in town. They are the ones who did the rear axle pinion seal replacement for me. Hopefully it will not be anything too serious, just a good cleaning and lubrication. Truck goes in for servicing next week, Thursday the 13th.

LET'S GET READY TO DO SOME 4-WHEELIN'!!!


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 5:25 pm 
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Belair56 wrote:
TravisM.1 wrote:
Neville wrote:
A new battery was needed, but I believe the alternator needs replaced too. I am pulling it out tonight and taking it for testing. If that's all that's needed, it's not a difficult fix.


Get it to start, then pull the positive battery cable off the battery. If it dies, you've got alternator/regulator/rectifier troubles.

True but this is awful rough on the diodes, try this use a DC volt meter put the positive lead on the battery and the negative lead on the negative post while its running it will show the voltage it should be at least 13.7


DiscoBubba wrote:
I'm no pro but I've heard that's not always the best idea as the battery is in parallel to the alternator it helps to regulate the voltage. I've heard if you pull the battery off it might spike the voltage too high and damage electrical components. Sure it should work, has probably been done before without issue, and will probably be fine on an old truck like that but he's already pulling it out and taking it somewhere to be tested. Probably the more accurate thing to do as well.


Dang guys, I didn't mean "pull the cable and drive it around", more like "pull the cable and see if it stays running".

Neville, its coming along nicely.

On the engines, I believe I've heard (from my Dad, could be good info or not) that the 304 was an AMC engine, while the 345 was a IHC engine. The 345 was also used in small dump trucks, plow trucks, and school buses back in the day. My dad had both a Scout (345, auto- rear end went out, dad let my brother and I run it around in the woods front-wheel drive), and later on bought a '73 IHC truck (345, 4 speed). Thanks to my 17 year old driving habits, we ended up swapping the engine out of the scout and into the truck. Both engines had The IHC stamped valve covers.

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