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PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 12:23 pm 
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What a sweet ride!!

Want want want! :D


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 9:35 pm 
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Neville wrote:
rvrrnnr wrote:
If I found a Scout that looked that good I don't believe I would be able to mod it any. It just looks too "right".

Maybe road trip it to Detroit, call a meeting of the bigthree and say "buid this assholes!"


LOL, no doubt if they did build it, it would sell. That design would never pass today's standards though. In the 70's an IHC engineer's idea of a "crumple zone" was the OTHER vehicle. I gotta say I love the durable simplicity of these machines. They do not make them like this anymore, and likely never will.


It's 2010 and I still consider a "crumple zone" as whatever hits me or I hit.

You're right that we could never have something that simple and durable produced today. If the .gov would allow it we could just import some of those great offerings that other countrys get.

Of course, everyone knows that you can't have a vehicle without a computer to run everything, from checking tire pressure to keeping you from crossing the yellow line. Everyone needs traction control, GPS and tvs at every seat.

If people had to actually learn how to drive properly, check stuff like tire pressure themselves, figure out how to read a map or pay attention while behind the wheel then they wouldn't have time to keep everyone informed about what kind of day they are having on facebook or find out how many times their favorite actor/singer/whatever had to wipe while visiting the bathroom today via twitter. -(Anyone else think it's funny that the first four letters spell "twit"?)

...anyway, it's a damn nice truck you got there friend and ya'll excuse me while I go put my soapbox back in my BOV.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 12:38 am 
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345 was a a good engine, IH used them in 5ton trucks too, so a tiny little scout is a snap for it ..

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 6:37 pm 
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IH got out of the SUV business just as it was taking off. I always thought it was a real shame they didn't make a go of it in the 80's - I think they would have sold quite a few. I remember taking our 1970 Scout in for factory servicing. We were in this bay surrounded by huge rigs, and we felt pretty small, but they fixed it right up - no problem.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 6:12 pm 
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Latest and greatest news on the 78 Scout Terra BOV....

Well, after the drive in movie fiasco some electrical work was in order. Since this is a vehicle that has been pretty much parked (and dry-run only occasionally) I figured it was best to start with a brand new Optima Red top battery. Took the alternator off to be tested... FAILED on all counts, so I ordered an upgrade 12si (orig 10si) 105 amp alternator. Had a minor glitch where the original alternator had a double pulley and the replacement had only a single... but I managed to score a double locally (could not get the original off!!!) and get it on. However, even with the brand new alternator the alt gauge is running toward the "D" side whenever a load is applied such as headlights. Well, after a whole weekend of fiddling around, tracing wires and cruising internet forums for advice I found the problem. A previous owner had routed the power supply from the alternator through a switch on the dash labeled "4 Wheel Drive". When this switch was in the off position, there was NO CURRENT AT ALL going from the alternator into the battery or electrical system. It was also causing the voltage regulator in the alternator to crank out a whopping 74 volts trying to bring the system voltage up, to no avail. This is probably why the original burned out. Anyway, it is running and charging now, and next weekend I will permanently remove the switch. Can't figure out why it was there to begin with... maybe a poor man's Lo-Jack, keep a thief from getting too far?

Heh. You wouldn't believe how much brighter the lights are now with an alternator actually attached to the system! LOL.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 7:17 pm 
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Further adventures of Scoutie...

I was out doing some Christmas shopping a couple of weeks ago. It was raining and I did a lot of driving around for various errands - the kind where you run into the store for a minute, see if they have what you need, then dash out again. The whole time I was out it was raining, so the lights, wipers and defroster were on. At the last place I got out I glanced at the truck as I walked away and did a double take. The marker lights were still on. I was sure I turned them off, but maybe I didn't get the switch pushed in all the way. A quick check showed a different story . There was no amount of pushing that would turn those lights off. Gauge lights were on too. Figured it was a bad switch. Went home, pulled the battery cable, and ordered a new headlight switch. Well, the switch arrives and guess what, that does NOT fix the problem. I start pulling fuses... pulled the one for dash lights and several others... NADA!!! Lights still ON!

At that point I heave a great sigh and resign to the inevitable. The dash has to come off and I have to go spelunking in the wiring between the dash and the firewall. Not a pleasant prospect.

It turns out that the switch I mentioned in the previous post (installed by a previous owner) was the culprit, although indirectly. A wire for a gauge light had gotten tangled around the switch, and happened to be touching one of the terminals. That switch got hot enough, over a couple hours of carrying current for lights, wipers and blower fan, that it melted through the insulation on the gauge light wire. So the gauge/marker light circuit was receiving B+ voltage DIRECTLY regardless of any igition switch or even fuse box. I was VERY PLEASED that the problem turned out to be so minor. I removed the switch and soldered the two ends together, sealing with heat-shrink tubing and electrical tape, then binding to the rest of the wiring harness. A lengthy process of re-installing the dash followed. WOW!!! I cannot BELIEVE how much brighter the dash lights are now, I actually have to turn them down a bit. That is sure to work wonders for the charging circuit because now the battery will be getting good juice all the time.

Very glad this happened close to home and I had a spare vehicle to drive. It would really have sucked to have this happen on a bug out. As you can see from the date of the previous post, I had been procrastinating the chore of removing that switch. If I had done it right away, it would have saved the time and trouble of taking the dash apart, troubleshooting, ordering parts and replacing fuses... in short, I cost myself time and money by not fixing it right away. I could have cost myself MUCH more if it had occured on a real bug out. Fortunately we still consider this a "spare" vehicle and still in the shake-down period for finding little issues and fixing them.

Next issue... while checking out wiring I found coolant (anti-freeze) puddles on top of the engine, both in front and in back. Leaking hose? Bad water pump? Bad gasket of some kind? I cannot seem to find a source for it. A new hose kit has been obtained, we'll see if that does the trick.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 8:13 pm 
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I'll take a wild guess and say head gasket or hoses for the coolant leak.

The last older car i did I just pulled all the old wiring out and put in a painless wiring kit. A lot of work, but i didn't want the thing to burn up from old wiring.

Cars are an adventure, I just got a seized bolt out after attacking it with every tool I've got for 12 hrs!

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 5:34 pm 
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Ok, further adventures!

I was given a Scout Traveller top. The Traveller is the 4 passenger, fully covered version of my truck. They are NEARLY interchangeable. One of the points of difficulty that makes this a NEARLY situation is that the license plate is mounted on the steel pickup tailgate. On the traveler, the license plate is mounted on the fiberglass hatch back. If you want to swap back and forth between the pickup/suv mode like I do, that makes things difficult. You'd have to remove the tailgate, swap the license, connect the license plate light - and then reverse it all when you want to swap back. Not terribly practical.

I determined that the right thing to do would be to have the liftgate cut down to mesh with the existing steel tailgate on the pickup. At the same time, I determined to have all the minor body work done to get the vehicle ready for new paint.

Here are some photos of the work in progress.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 11:13 pm 
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On that alternator, I could be wrong but I think the 10si is externally regulated and the 12si is internally regulated. Check to see if the field terminals are in line or perpendicular. I know that GM changed to an internal regulator in the mid 70's, so you could still have a regulator on the truck that is messing up your charging. If the alternator is internal and you have a bad regulator hooked to it you will not get charge.

Of course, I could have my years of application confused with the alternator models.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 11:23 pm 
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Neville wrote:
One component, the choke pull-off vacuum diaphragm, was ruptured and there is no new replacement, so that gizmo had to go out to be rebuilt by a specialty house (did a great job too, it came back fully functional and SHINY).



I just put a manual choke on mine.





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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 5:42 pm 
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grennels wrote:
Neville wrote:
One component, the choke pull-off vacuum diaphragm, was ruptured and there is no new replacement, so that gizmo had to go out to be rebuilt by a specialty house (did a great job too, it came back fully functional and SHINY).



I just put a manual choke on mine.







Well, grennels, that's a fairly quick and easy solution... unfortunately, that would never pass the CA smog check. All mods performed upstream of the catalytic converter must be CARB approved. Usually, that means original or identical replacement parts. I have an aftermarket ignition coil (which has the CARB approval sticker on it) but otherwise, my engine is all original.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 5:44 pm 
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57plymouth wrote:
On that alternator, I could be wrong but I think the 10si is externally regulated and the 12si is internally regulated. Check to see if the field terminals are in line or perpendicular. I know that GM changed to an internal regulator in the mid 70's, so you could still have a regulator on the truck that is messing up your charging. If the alternator is internal and you have a bad regulator hooked to it you will not get charge.

Of course, I could have my years of application confused with the alternator models.



Plymouth,

The 12si is a direct swap in. Even the plugs fit without alteration. They are both regulated the same way. Since the swap, everything is running and charging great.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 5:48 pm 
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moosiah wrote:
345 was a a good engine, IH used them in 5ton trucks too, so a tiny little scout is a snap for it ..


BTW that "tiny little scout" weighs in at about two and a half tons. 5,000 lb vehicle, despite being a "mid-size" truck.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 6:56 pm 
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The scouts were built right here in Fort Wayne In. not sophisticated urbane Detroit . I bought one new in about 78 but it was 2 wheel drive :( I thought it had the 345 in it as well but it may have been the 304 . I do know it was an AMC motor .

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2011 2:21 am 
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neville I had a ihi 1600 truck , used to haul hay and the like, truck weighed 10.00 empty, and hauled 14,000# of hay (and sometimes 15000# of wine grapes,, sshh!) regularly ... same 345 engine.. so that's why I think a scout is tiny... ;-)

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 10:38 pm 
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Great work, keep it up. Gotta keep the IH iron in the street :)
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 1:26 pm 
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my wife wants an old scout BAD! I would love to get here on and swap in either a 7.3 powerstroke or even a Cummins 4bt

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 4:46 pm 
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greggk wrote:
my wife wants an old scout BAD! I would love to get here on and swap in either a 7.3 powerstroke or even a Cummins 4bt


My dream Scout is the '80 model with the Nissan turbo diesel.
http://www.dieselpowermag.com/features/ ... index.html

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 7:51 pm 
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greggk wrote:
my wife wants an old scout BAD! I would love to get here on and swap in either a 7.3 powerstroke or even a Cummins 4bt



You mean like this one?


and no, not me. Just a craigslist search for "Scout"


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2011 1:44 am 
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yeah like that! prefer a 70's scout II but that would work too!

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 11:54 am 
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Back from the body work...

Over all, I am mostly pleased, although not all the work requested was completed. The guy doing the work ran into a number of personal/family problems, which delayed and eventually terminated the work. The dings and dents are fixed, hatch operational, doors aligned (they were saggy and difficult), bumpers straightened, windshield angle adjusted to fit the new top. Not happy with where the mirrors are... they need to be 2-4 inches farther forward. The bed will get sprayed in bedliner at some point. It was supposed to be "paint ready" but it is not... the primer you see is the textured "primer filler" that is meant to be sanded smooth. It's not, LOL. Now I have to find a good paint shop to finish the job right. I don't want a bargain basement paint job. This is going to be a different color, and it's important (to me) that there not be odd little out of the way places screaming "here's where the paint guys got lazy and didn't get the nooks and crannies". I don't want the rubber painted, nor "masking tape" strips of original color around the "do not paint" areas. Tall order?

What do you think?

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 11:55 am 
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Oh, and latest in the saga... It quit on the wife Tuesday out on the freeway and had to be towed home. Turns out it was a bad fuel pump. Got that installed last night, seems to be working fine now. This weekend I'm replacing some coolant hoses and a stuck heater valve. Fun times!

And today I get the privilege of redeeming our 2001 Trooper from the local transmission shop to the tune of $3200. Ouch. It'll be nice to have two cars on the road again. Wife has been getting cranky while the Scout's been in the shop.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 12:24 pm 
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well at least its getting closer. where are you in Norcal. the reason I ask is I have a buddy out there and if you are close enough I might be able to get you in contact with his body guy that he uses for his show rigs. he said the guy is super reasonable and does fantastic work.. thats if you are interested...

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 5:46 pm 
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Ahh, the joys of owning a classic!

Stick with it, it's looking good. It will entice drools from all the cool kids.

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