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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 5:05 pm 
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Okay,
After getting 18" of snow and having the city and county ignore the fact that people in my neighborhood actually live here. :vmad:
I got stuck yesterday...Bad, :x the street I live on Had a 4" thick sheet of ice the entire length.
I was So lucky it wasn't an emergency, But I took care of the problem today.
My BOV is a 2001 Kia Sportage, 4x4, They came from kia with "Warn" vacuum actuated hubs, Which are notorious for not working.
The vacuum seal goes bad and there you are stuck.
The way they work is there's a spring that keeps the splines dis-engaged until Vacuum overcomes spring tension and locks in 4wd.
I just changed the position of the spring to keep the splines engaged, it's only a temporary fix but it will get you home.
You will need a 10mm socket and ratchet (a box end wrench will work but the ratchet really speeds things up).
And either a medium flathead skrewdriver, or a pair of snap-ring pliers.
And here we go...
1st loosen the 6 10mm bolts holding your hub to your axle. (You don't even have to jack the truck up but can if it makes you feel better.)
Image


Then lightly "knock" the hub loose and finish removing the bolts.


The hub should look like this inside, Mine are pretty dirty.
Image

Notice how the "guts" sit down inside the hub, that's because the spring is pushing them inward.


Now You should see a snap-ring there inside the hub, With a notch on one end.
Image


Pry the end with the notch out and up from the channel that it's in
Image


Go all around the housing and remove the snap-ring, and set it aside, make sure it stays right side up.
Image



Now the hubs "guts" can be taken out, they shoud look like this (again Mine are dirty.)
Image


Take the spring this is it...
Image

Place it in the "bottom" of the hub, between the hub and the "guts".


When you put the "guts back in they should stick out like this...
Image

Now work the snap-ring back into the channel you pulled it out of, and replace the hub according to your repair manuals specs.
(I believe it's "tighten the bolts in 2 passes first to 14ftlb, then to 35ftlb." but check to be sure.)

http://youtu.be/TG8a1711nUo
just a video showing the fronts spinning to prove it works.

And that's how I got my 4wd working, I'm going to swap on manual hubs next month so I'll update this post then.
Thanks for your time,
Duder

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 5:16 pm 
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Very esoteric application, but this is an outstanding example of the kind of improvisation that will serve you very well if a long term emergency ever comes to pass. Most people would have simply resigned themselves to the fact that this couldn't be done without an expensive repair. You made it work because you decided you had to make it work.

Bravo!

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 5:19 pm 
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Nicely done!

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 8:36 pm 
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Good fix

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2012 9:00 pm 
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majorhavoc wrote:
Very esoteric application, but this is an outstanding example of the kind of improvisation that will serve you very well if a long term emergency ever comes to pass. Most people would have simply resigned themselves to the fact that this couldn't be done without an expensive repair. You made it work because you decided you had to make it work.

Bravo!



That, all day.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 4:58 pm 
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Back in the day, I had a 2000 Sportage, that we bought new. We were going through hubs bi-monthly. Finally they had doin a fix of manual locking hubs. I do not know the manufacturer, or if they are even made anymore. Wish I could help you more with this. They were installed by the local dealership. Never had a problem with them again. We gave it to my mother in 2004 and she got rid of it in 2006 with no further issues.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2013 5:06 pm 
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Nice hack. Swapped out my hubs for manuals after the first year.

Thanks for showing us the hack, I appreciate your time.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 3:47 am 
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Common mod on early SLA rangers as well, have the same issue and the newer rangers just run drive flanges with the same front end, leaving it locked in all the time a long as its not in 4x will be fine, but you will lose mileage.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 4:55 pm 
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Question I have an 02 sportage and every time we engage 4wd we have issues getting it to disengage fully. We want to switch to manual hubs but haven't yet. My question is this... as it currently sits if you drive it forward in "2wd" it periodically tries to re engage 4wd and sounds like a sledgehammer hitting the front of the vehicle. Can I disable the 4wd and still be able to drive it until I can switch the manual hubs???


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 27, 2013 4:54 pm 
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I'm just curious, will do any damage to anything if I were to leave this this way long term?
I don't have the money for the parts to fix this but its the dead of winter here and I really need the 4 wheel drive.
I however, don't want to end up shelling out more money to fix it when it breaks worse.
Will doing this damage the manual transfer case or any other drive line parts?
Sorry for all of the questions but I just don't want to put myself in a worse situation in the long run.

thank you for all of your awesome info and I await your reply.

James


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 8:50 am 
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Hi "superduder",

I know this thread is rather old, but I recently stumbled across it, and your solution just "saved my life" if I may say so. My BOV is a Kia Sportage model 2000, long version. A while ago, I had to replace the original front vacuum hubs, with a new pair of manual hubs from WARN Company. I had no problem with them, until 3 days ago, when I discovered that even if I turn them to "LOCK" position, they remain still unlocked. I was a little bit shocked, because I knew that they are guaranteed to work for life, and a manual mechanical system never fails. So I used our good old friend Google, and I found your post in the first few result entries. So I took the old original hubs out of the box, and I modified them as per your instructions. The second day, I put them back on, and they work like a charm. I am able to drive through at least half a meter of snow, using just the 4H position. I have HANKOOK DynaPro ATM RF10 tires on it. They are "all season" tires bought at the beginning of 2013, but they are very good tires.

I am currently located in ROMANIA, Eastern Europe, and in the last week, we experienced very severe weather with heavy snow and blizzards. So a good equipped 4x4 vehicle, is more than needed these says. By the way, last night I opened them up, the manual hubs, and I discovered that they were being blocked by a lot of dirt, moisture, and something that looked like stain, but it eventually came up clean. I soaked them in WD-40 for a while, and after that I cleaned them, and oiled them up with (please don`t laugh) ARMISTOL (gun/rifle oil). Now they are completely functional once again, without blockage or anything. Anyway, the original hubs that I modified, will remain on my car until I see the first leaf of grass in the spring.

Conclusion: the manual WARN hubs, are prone to be affected in time, by water and dirt that will eventually enter through the exterior part where is the turning knob used to switch the hub from "FREE" to "LOCK" position. So I am currently thinking at some sort of cap to cover that knob, easy to put and remove, but tightly enough to prevent the water from getting in again.

Thank you "superduder" once again for your advice, and I hope the additional information I have provided above, will help anyone in the same situation.

Best regards

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 8:25 pm 
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I have no horse in this race but I am glad to see this thread helped so many folks.


I wonder if there would be a silicon 'cap' or similar for water bottles or cans or the like or such that would work to cover the WARN manual hubs to keep them clean?

In my head I am seeing the blue caps one a five gallon water jug for a water cooler.

Google is coming up empty, but I think it is a valid path regardless.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 11:46 pm 
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Good to know!

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2015 2:29 pm 
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Hi, Thanks for your great photos of the 'Flip' !!
Question: What weight of gear oil do the front 4WD hubs use ? I have no information manual for this 2002 Kia Sportage, 4 cylinder manual trans.
My wife now, but girlfriend when she had a 2002 Kia Sportage that had 'mud' in the front 4WD hubs causing an overheating of the bearings and subsequent disintegration, and the wheel almost fell off as she was totally determined to go the additional 40 miles to work that morning when it started 'grinding' and going 'slower' !! It's been siting in my garage, our garage, for a couple of years now, as I've been too busy with other stuff to get around to fixing it.
But first, I need to know what kind of oil and weight of oil, or grease, to put into the front hubs upon reassembly ?? Your photos reminded me of, Oh that looks familiar !
And I didn't know that these are 'vacuum actuated' 4WD ! The small rubber hose that went to each hub was rotted off, thus water and dirt got into the hubs and ruined the lubrication. The driver's side failed, the passenger's side is in serious trouble as well. I thought the hoses were to allow heat expanded air to escape and not make the oil leak out.
Perhaps I would do better to replace them with WARN manual hubs ?? and forget about trying to fix the existing hubs ?
Anyway, I'm just now getting around to dealing with the problem on the repair side, after doing the diagnostic side. The car runs fine, it just needs the front hubs rebuilt etc.
Thanks for any advice and data, Lars in Nevada. And if you'd like to buy this car, as wife now has a Ford Focus !


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 9:36 am 
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Do not bother trying to fix the original vacuum hubs. If the rubber gaskets which are part of the old vaccum hubs system are very used / damaged, they will not be tight sealed, and the hubs will not engage when the 4H - 4L shift lever is activated inside the car. You will see the green light turning on the dashboard, but in fact you will not have 4x4 traction. I am telling you this from my own past experience.

Just buy a pair of new WARN manual hubs. You won`t regret it. Also, take down the old vacuum hubs, and apply the modification described in this thread. Then keep them in the car for backup. For the WARN manual hubs, just be sure to take them down every two - or three months or so, just to manually check them if they have dust, moisture, or other debris inside, and if they are able to engage correctly. Because sometimes, even if you put them on "lock" position, if the spring and parts inside are dirty, they will not engage. But otherwise, the WARN hubs is the best solution out there. I hope this additional information will help you in some extent. Thank you.

Best regards

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 12:20 am 
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brainbyte wrote:
Do not bother trying to fix the original vacuum hubs. If the rubber gaskets which are part of the old vaccum hubs system are very used / damaged, they will not be tight sealed, and the hubs will not engage when the 4H - 4L shift lever is activated inside the car. You will see the green light turning on the dashboard, but in fact you will not have 4x4 traction. I am telling you this from my own past experience.

Just buy a pair of new WARN manual hubs. You won`t regret it. Also, take down the old vacuum hubs, and apply the modification described in this thread. Then keep them in the car for backup. For the WARN manual hubs, just be sure to take them down every two - or three months or so, just to manually check them if they have dust, moisture, or other debris inside, and if they are able to engage correctly. Because sometimes, even if you put them on "lock" position, if the spring and parts inside are dirty, they will not engage. But otherwise, the WARN hubs is the best solution out there. I hope this additional information will help you in some extent. Thank you.

Best regards

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This.
The "Flip" Was a temporary fix, in case my wife went into labor while the city ignored the fact that people actually live
in the area they (the city) are supposed to be clearing the roads in.
Not just in the "New Homes in the low 400s" Sub Division outside town.
I bought a set of the warn manual hubs off amazon, they went on as easily as the "flip" did,
Then 2 Count'em 2 days later the oil pump took a dive and the engine fried.
Not worth a $1500 engine + install for a $1000 suv.
And as far as I know there isn't any grease in the factory hubs, sorry.
J

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2017 11:18 pm 
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Hey,this is a pretty old post,but maybe someone will actually see this.
I'm wondering how hard is it to switch to manual hubs? I'm pretty mechanically inclined,but I nsy have over thought it.
Anything you could tell me would be great!!!
And thank you !!


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2017 9:03 am 
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02 Sportage+ wrote:
Hey,this is a pretty old post,but maybe someone will actually see this.
I'm wondering how hard is it to switch to manual hubs? I'm pretty mechanically inclined,but I nsy have over thought it.
Anything you could tell me would be great!!!
And thank you !!


Per OP's last post:
superduder wrote:
I bought a set of the warn manual hubs off amazon, they went on as easily as the "flip" did


https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss ... XBXDAWPIXT

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2017 10:11 am 
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Thank you superduder! I'll get a set ordered & see how it goes!
Excuse me for asking such seemingly stupid questions, but since I don't have a book or anyone really to ask,will I just have to trade the hubs out & remove or plug the vacuum lines? I'm no mechanic,bug pretty smart for a girl!


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2017 9:40 pm 
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Eventually you're going to want to get rid of as much as possible of the vacuum stuff for the original hubs.
You'll still need the electrical, and the shifter.
I just blocked the vacuum lines.

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