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PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 12:54 pm 
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The only thing you will get on an ESEE is some surface corrosion on the blade edge. If you are in fact beating it to shit, you won't even have to worry about that. Use or sharpening will remove it.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 1:15 pm 
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Browning 35 wrote:
Whiskey wrote:
I don't think you will regret the 6. I would take it over the SOG, any day.

Depends on what sort of use it'll see.

For a general purpose, one knife to-do-it-all sort of blade that'll see hard use I'll take AUS 8 over 1095 just because the AUS 8 is known for it's corrosion resistance and ease of sharpening properties. There's nothing wrong with 1095, been around for a long time and it's a great low cost steel. 1095 has to be cared for a little more than AUS 8 though. Not a whole lot more care, but enough.

I mean there are other factors involved in a knife than just the steel it's made out of, but it's one of the main things to look at. General purpose knives also tend to get beat to shit, so I'd go for something that doesn't require a whole lot of care (or at least less care).

That's my reasoning anyway. YMMV, just saying...yada yada

so which one is which? Ive never really understood blade composistion...

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 1:57 pm 
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0122358 wrote:
so which one is which? Ive never really understood blade composistion...

The Esee is 1095.

The Sog is AUS 8.

Edit : Steel types (*Click*)

Knife steel (*Click*)

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 2:38 pm 
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So Whiskey...why dont you like the Sog?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 6:51 pm 
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012, I have no personal experience with the SOG. I can only go on what I can see on the Internet when I say I would prefer the ESEE 6 to the Seal Pup. For a survival knife, I hate serrations. Wastes the best part of the blade in my opinion.

I spend a lot of my time in the field. I wouldn't want the SOG. If you aren't doing a lot of bushcraft, and just need a fixed blade for your bag, the SOG will do, I'm sure.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 8:16 pm 
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Whiskey wrote:
012, I have no personal experience with the SOG. I can only go on what I can see on the Internet when I say I would prefer the ESEE 6 to the Seal Pup. For a survival knife, I hate serrations. Wastes the best part of the blade in my opinion.

I spend a lot of my time in the field. I wouldn't want the SOG. If you aren't doing a lot of bushcraft, and just need a fixed blade for your bag, the SOG will do, I'm sure.


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If i was bugging out then id want an ESSE or Becker or Ontario...but for a general pack knife for small camp tasks and minor wood splitting I think the SOG will do...id get the plain edge as well...

I'll probably get both at somepoint...

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 9:17 pm 
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The SOG will probably do you fine for that. I hate to come off as a knife snob. Any knife, full tang, made of good steel will do what you absolutely NEED to do with a knife. I have preferences... No serrations, full tang, and good factory sheaths are a huge bonus. Couple all those traits with a 100 percent warranty, and the fact that I can post something up on their forum and get a reply from the men that designed the knives and run the company... That's a huge deal to me. I will ALWAYS recommend ESEE knives to someone looking for a woods blade, if they have the cash.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 10:12 pm 
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I'd have to agree with you on the serrations, you can get the Sog Seal Pup Elite that doesn't have the serrations for $48.

I like the Esee, they make a good knife. I'd just prefer to see them come out with something besides 1095. If I'm going to pay that kinda money I'd rather get better steel.

If I'm going to pimp anything it'll be the Fallkniven F1 or S1.

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Evan the Diplomat wrote:
Why do you want to shoot penguins? What did they ever do to you?

It's that smug, superior attitude of theirs, strutting around in their fancy outfits like they're better than everyone else. Yeah, burn in hell, you snobbish bird bastards.

And don't get me started on pandas!


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 3:26 am 
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SO many options for a fixed-blade general bushcraft knife. One that I rarely see recommended that I have a fondness for is the Knives of Alaska Bush Camp in D2. Great blade in a similar price range to the Beckers.

Seriously though, the ESEEs, Beckers, Ontarios (mostly...some occassional HT issues) will all serve you well, and while I'm not personally aqcuainted with the SOG, I am very familiar with AUS-8 and find it to be fantastic on the Boker Plus BOB. It's superior to 12C27, which most people are familiar with through Mora stainless models.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 11:16 am 
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I love my li'l Beckers. I put them in teh same class as the ESEE Izulas.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 2:29 pm 
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OK, I'm in the market for a new knife. Criteria are somewhat strange for me. I am looking for a knife intended for use in wet environments, mostly fresh water but potentially salt as well. I will probably be wearing swim trunks, a T-shirt, water shoes, and a broad-brimmed hat, so I'm thinking neck knife rather than a big sheath knife. Uses are probably going to mostly be whittling, like making bows and shit, for fun, while hanging in Manbath or doing the float trip at ZCON, and for other adventures that involve getting wet in rivers, lakes, and beaches.

I'm thinking stainless steel (or I guess Titanium), no serrations (or at least not on the front edge close to the grip which is where I carve the most), a comfortable enough handle that I will enjoy carving with it, and wearable as a neck knife so I don't have to wear a rig while swimming or paddling.

Will I hate carving wood with a Bird and Trout? It seems like a reasonable, economical option if it's not too uncomfortable. Any good alternatives?

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 4:33 pm 
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Jeriah wrote:
OK, I'm in the market for a new knife. Criteria are somewhat strange for me. I am looking for a knife intended for use in wet environments, mostly fresh water but potentially salt as well. I will probably be wearing swim trunks, a T-shirt, water shoes, and a broad-brimmed hat, so I'm thinking neck knife rather than a big sheath knife. Uses are probably going to mostly be whittling, like making bows and shit, for fun, while hanging in Manbath or doing the float trip at ZCON, and for other adventures that involve getting wet in rivers, lakes, and beaches.

I'm thinking stainless steel (or I guess Titanium), no serrations (or at least not on the front edge close to the grip which is where I carve the most), a comfortable enough handle that I will enjoy carving with it, and wearable as a neck knife so I don't have to wear a rig while swimming or paddling.

Will I hate carving wood with a Bird and Trout? It seems like a reasonable, economical option if it's not too uncomfortable. Any good alternatives?

Image


A few years ago I got my BrotherIn Law a Becker Necker:
http://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-BK11-Becke ... ker+becker
He is a rafter and "high-life" outdoorsy guy (canned hunts, trailers, rafting trips, fishing trips, canned adventures, etc). Still outdoorsy and all just on a different (has money) level. He uses the Hell out of this knife. Mostly for rafting trips - it can mount on his vest. I taught him how to "neck" a knife and that is his prefered carry when not on his rafting vest.

Scurvy relies on the Izula. Kind of the same dimensions as the Becker, maybe a bit smaller. He uses the Hell out of that thing and, if you've seen his threads about making shit, to good effect.

Oh, and...

MORA :P . A stainless one though I've never had issues, as I do my part, with water on a carbon steel blade screwing it up.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 4:58 am 
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Jeriah wrote:
OK, I'm in the market for a new knife. Criteria are somewhat strange for me. I am looking for a knife intended for use in wet environments, mostly fresh water but potentially salt as well. I will probably be wearing swim trunks, a T-shirt, water shoes, and a broad-brimmed hat, so I'm thinking neck knife rather than a big sheath knife. Uses are probably going to mostly be whittling, like making bows and shit, for fun, while hanging in Manbath or doing the float trip at ZCON, and for other adventures that involve getting wet in rivers, lakes, and beaches.

I'm thinking stainless steel (or I guess Titanium), no serrations (or at least not on the front edge close to the grip which is where I carve the most), a comfortable enough handle that I will enjoy carving with it, and wearable as a neck knife so I don't have to wear a rig while swimming or paddling.


What about the CRKT minimalist series- specifically the bowie or wharncliffe:

http://www.amazon.com/Columbia-River-Kn ... roduct_top

http://www.amazon.com/Columbia-River-Kn ... _hi_text_y

I have the tanto which I don't recommend- the blade shape is not the best. The handle however is cool, and the use of the lanyard to form another finger grip is good.

If you want to spend some more money there's the Spyderco ones made out of H1 steel, like the folding Dragonfly 2 Salt:

http://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=665

(people make kydex sheaths for little folders on ebay).


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 9:17 am 
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ninja-elbow wrote:
Jeriah wrote:
OK, I'm in the market for a new knife. Criteria are somewhat strange for me. I am looking for a knife intended for use in wet environments, mostly fresh water but potentially salt as well. I will probably be wearing swim trunks, a T-shirt, water shoes, and a broad-brimmed hat, so I'm thinking neck knife rather than a big sheath knife. Uses are probably going to mostly be whittling, like making bows and shit, for fun, while hanging in Manbath or doing the float trip at ZCON, and for other adventures that involve getting wet in rivers, lakes, and beaches.

I'm thinking stainless steel (or I guess Titanium), no serrations (or at least not on the front edge close to the grip which is where I carve the most), a comfortable enough handle that I will enjoy carving with it, and wearable as a neck knife so I don't have to wear a rig while swimming or paddling.

Will I hate carving wood with a Bird and Trout? It seems like a reasonable, economical option if it's not too uncomfortable. Any good alternatives?

Image


A few years ago I got my BrotherIn Law a Becker Necker:
http://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-BK11-Becke ... ker+becker
He is a rafter and "high-life" outdoorsy guy (canned hunts, trailers, rafting trips, fishing trips, canned adventures, etc). Still outdoorsy and all just on a different (has money) level. He uses the Hell out of this knife. Mostly for rafting trips - it can mount on his vest. I taught him how to "neck" a knife and that is his prefered carry when not on his rafting vest.


I like names that rhyme, and I have heard good things about the Becker, but since my primary intention is to use this knife when I am playing in the water, I might not be able to dry and oil the blade after use. I think I'd rather have stainless than carbon, even 1095 Cro-van which is apparently more rust-resistant than most carbon steels. Thanks for the recommendation and I'll bear it in mind, though. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showt ... -and-water

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Scurvy relies on the Izula. Kind of the same dimensions as the Becker, maybe a bit smaller. He uses the Hell out of that thing and, if you've seen his threads about making shit, to good effect.


I like smaller, and I've heard naught but good about the Izula. Again, though, 1095 carbon steel. http://www.knifeworks.com/eseeizulasurv ... order.aspx

I know the blades of these knives are coated but I'm concerned about the edge. Yes, the rust will be removed with sharpening and use, but...is that the gist of your recommendation? That I don't need to worry about getting a knife in stainless steel because if the rest of the blade is coated the edge will take care of itself? I like the idea of the Izula, maybe in a bright color like pink or safety orange. This knife would be used in a context where losing it would be more of a concern than being observed.

Quote:
MORA :P . A stainless one though I've never had issues, as I do my part, with water on a carbon steel blade screwing it up.


I've always felt that a Mora was lacking in my life. Maybe a bit more than I want to hang around my neck, though. Thanks!

Red Tamarillo wrote:
What about the CRKT minimalist series- specifically the bowie or wharncliffe:

http://www.amazon.com/Columbia-River-Kn ... roduct_top

http://www.amazon.com/Columbia-River-Kn ... _hi_text_y

I have the tanto which I don't recommend- the blade shape is not the best. The handle however is cool, and the use of the lanyard to form another finger grip is good.

If you want to spend some more money there's the Spyderco ones made out of H1 steel, like the folding Dragonfly 2 Salt:

http://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=665

(people make kydex sheaths for little folders on ebay).


Those are more in line with what I had in mind. That CRKT Bowie looks pretty much spot on; I like the light weight, stainless steel, and low price point. I'm still open to alternatives but that looks like a good option so far. I don't think I want a folder for this role even though Spyderco is of course well-regarded. I'm a little concerned, with the CRKT, about how comfortable it will be for woodcarving, but I do like that it's stainless. Does yours take and keep a good edge?

I think of the options I've seen, I like the Izula, if I can convince myself not to worry about the edge rusting, and the CRKT Bowie, if I can convince myself that it'll keep a good edge and that handle shape won't piss me off. I am still open to other options.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 9:22 am 
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I probably don't want to spend $200 in this role but:

http://www.crawfordknives.com/DROP%20PO ... TANIUM.htm

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Titanium.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 12:23 pm 
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Check out these lower-priced options from Camillus:

http://www.amazon.com/Camillus-Carbonitride-Titanium-Bamboo-Handle/dp/B002DT0OTS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1372353762&sr=8-5&keywords=camillus


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 12:32 pm 
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kontraktniki wrote:


Interesting, although at 8" or 10", bigger than I want in a neck knife. Also, the "Carbonitride Titanium Japanese AUS-8 Steel" is steel with a titanium-based surface coating. It's not a titanium knife. In general those look like interesting knives but not right for my purposes. Thanks, though.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 12:49 pm 
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Jeriah wrote:
kontraktniki wrote:


Interesting, although at 8" or 10", bigger than I want in a neck knife. Also, the "Carbonitride Titanium Japanese AUS-8 Steel" is steel with a titanium-based surface coating. It's not a titanium knife. In general those look like interesting knives but not right for my purposes. Thanks, though.


Yea...I thought of that a little while after posting.

Your best bets might be, though not cheap, the BK24 D'Eskabar (I know not completely stainless being D2, but better than 1095), or the TOPs Shango.

Otherwise, the CRKT Minimalist Bowie (and some other solid options in their budget lineup) might be the way to go. Sadly, many neck knives are 1095 or 1075, which simply won't work for your intended purposes...though the ESEE and Becker coatings do mitigate a majority of corrosion with the exception of the edge itself.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 1:32 pm 
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I just discovered Red Bearded Blades awhile back and so far I'm impressed with my Artemis. I'm not normally a fan of D2 steel due to it being hard to re-sharpen in the field, but for a knife that is going to see some abuse it's a good fit in this application. All American made by a vet. Check them out!

http://redbeardedblades.com/

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"A little run down about this project. I am a disabled veteran and wanted to find a way to give back to both military/veterans & and the regular everyday American families, this is how it started. Each and every piece of the package is made in the USA, I use high quality prefabbed blades, lanyard, kydex sheaths, molle/belt attachment, beads, and even the envelopes are USA stamped. While I am a one man operations thanks to the ever growing support we as a whole are able to help insure job security for many families here in this country instead of outsourcing like other companies/brands in the industry. There is a ton of time that goes into putting together a project like this, and the BADASS product that so many rave about. That passion comes from my love of helping my fellow veterans/military members. I am an advocate for veterans attending college, I mentor to better help them during their transitioning back into the community, I am the Founder/President of a student veterans organization. This project was about a BADASS product that is exactly how you the customer envisions, this is why I let you tell me exactly how you want it to look, as you can see from the support and reviews they are badass!

~ THANK YOU The Red Bearded CrazyMan!!!~


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 1:44 pm 
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Re Rust Issues:

I have found that the only things that get rusty in my pile of knives are the knives I don't use (use = semi-scheduled maintenance too)...(which I do do to all my knives that sit in a drawer). All my users, most of them carbon scandis, and on rafting trips and fishing, while they do get rust on them will get a wipe down and a bit of oil. "Oil" includes oil from my hands, the bit of paper towel in a ziplock bag with Ballistol on it, some vaseline residue from my PJCB bag, meat fat or grease, or (and this has grossed people out when I mention it) oil from my own forhead or hair. The later is a matter of rubbing your hands on your oily skin and then rubbing your blade with it. Also, the more you use the blade the more natural patina that picks up on it and the more resistant to oil it will get.

The only time I preferred stainless steel over carbon was when I was a sailor and out at sea.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 1:46 pm 
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kontraktniki wrote:
Jeriah wrote:
kontraktniki wrote:


Interesting, although at 8" or 10", bigger than I want in a neck knife. Also, the "Carbonitride Titanium Japanese AUS-8 Steel" is steel with a titanium-based surface coating. It's not a titanium knife. In general those look like interesting knives but not right for my purposes. Thanks, though.


Yea...I thought of that a little while after posting.

Your best bets might be, though not cheap, the BK24 D'Eskabar (I know not completely stainless being D2, but better than 1095), or the TOPs Shango.

Otherwise, the CRKT Minimalist Bowie (and some other solid options in their budget lineup) might be the way to go. Sadly, many neck knives are 1095 or 1075, which simply won't work for your intended purposes...though the ESEE and Becker coatings do mitigate a majority of corrosion with the exception of the edge itself.


Ooh, those look like solid contenders as well.

Sounds like D2, although nominally stainless, will rust more or less on par with 1095: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showt ... Look/page2

And at $52, not a bad price, really. http://www.americanknifeandsword.com/be ... MgodHhYAyA

Shango is appealing because it's 440C, which (AFAIK) is a good stainless knife steel, and I like the design. Price is a bit steep compared to the others, at $120: http://www.topsknives.com/product_info. ... cts_id=302

So here is what I'm looking at:

CRKT Minimalist Bowie, $20, stainless
CS Bird and Trout, $20, stainless
Becker Necker, $45, 1095 carbon with black coating
Ka-Bar/Becker D'Eskabar, $52, D2 tool steel
ESEE Izula, $60, 1095 carbon with various colored coatings available
Shango, $120, 440C stainless

And one more, just to make things difficult:

CRKT Ritter RSK Mk.5, $20, 3Cr13 Stainless Steel (but description says "The high-carbon steel blade has Doug's preferred stonewashed finish for improved corrosion resistance," which sounds like either a copypasta error, or pure bullshit.) Looks to be the smallest, so maybe the least obnoxious to have around my neck all the time? Obviously the least convenient to use all day long, but at 0.9 oz (Amazon says 4oz, I assume that's with the sheath etc.), and only 1.75" long, it could be the handiest option. Stainless, so I won't have to worry about getting it wet and forgetting it, so I can wear it in Manbath and on the float trip etc and just forget it's there.

http://www.amazon.com/Columbia-River-Kn ... _sbs_ac_27

http://www.crkt.com/Ritter-RSK-Mk5

Is this thing going to suck so much ass that it defeats even the convenience of a tiny neck knife? Or, bearing in mind that it is for a very limited purpose, i.e. wanting to whittle something while in Manbath or on a float trip, so like 2 days out of the year generally, is a cheap, $20, use-and-put-away-wet stainless steel itty-bitty-titty-committee knife maybe not a bad option?

I

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 2:14 pm 
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ninja-elbow wrote:
Re Rust Issues:

I have found that the only things that get rusty in my pile of knives are the knives I don't use (use = semi-scheduled maintenance too)...(which I do do to all my knives that sit in a drawer). All my users, most of them carbon scandis, and on rafting trips and fishing, while they do get rust on them will get a wipe down and a bit of oil. "Oil" includes oil from my hands, the bit of paper towel in a ziplock bag with Ballistol on it, some vaseline residue from my PJCB bag, meat fat or grease, or (and this has grossed people out when I mention it) oil from my own forhead or hair. The later is a matter of rubbing your hands on your oily skin and then rubbing your blade with it. Also, the more you use the blade the more natural patina that picks up on it and the more resistant to oil it will get.

The only time I preferred stainless steel over carbon was when I was a sailor and out at sea.


This makes sense, and is the half of my head that's saying "D'Eskabar" or "Izula." But the other half of my head is saying that I want to be able to have a knife on me all the time, in and out of the water, probably not using it most of the time, and not have to worry about drying or oiling it. That side of my head is saying stainless, either Minimalist Bowie or RSK...Shango is pretty baller but honestly more money than I want to put into a knife with this limited and specialized an application.

It may be that what I want to do is get an RSK to leave on my dog tags, wear it in the water and not worry about it, and then consider a slightly larger, more comfortable, higher performing but not necessarily stainless neck knife for when I plan to do more work (and am prepared to follow up with maintenance).

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 8:37 pm 
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Mikeyboy wrote:
0122358 wrote:
Would a swedish mora make a good GHB knife?

and if so, what model would you reccomend?


"I personally like the "Light My Fire" Mora with the firesteel built into it. There is one in every carkit/GHB in my family and even my kids have one and learned how to use the the firesteel. They are easy to find in retail stores that sell camping gear, and not that expensive. The blade length is also 3.5" so its legal in almost ever state (nothing is legal in NJ) and they look real non threatening to a park rangers when camping, or a cop doing a search of the vehicle , which is a good thing because you don't want to stick a foot long rambo knife in your wife's or teenage kid's car and have them get in trouble for it.

Can you fell a tree and split logs wit it? Not really, but its just enough knife, to cut up kindling, do basic wood carving, gut and clean an animal, and if worst comes to worst use as a self defense weapon. "



Just got mine today and I'm diggin it so far. I've only done some shavings and feather sticks with it so far but it is a sweet little knife that'll be perfect for my day hike kit and all those whittling projects I've got on my To Do List.

http://www.lightmyfire.com/products/spa ... knife.aspx

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My Woods Bumming Kit / My Day Hike Pack/GHB / My Personal BOB / Our Family BOB / My Youtube Channel


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 12:13 am 
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Shango can be had cheaper... http://www.amazon.com/Knives-SHGO01-Shango-Machined-Handles/dp/B004GEUDXK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372395389&sr=8-1&keywords=tops+shango - Skeletonized handles...but only $76 and some change to your door.

They're also in that price range on eBay.

Benchmade has a series of Dive knives...Benchmade h2o...something like that. I remember them being in the $70-80 range as well. Might be worth a look.

The Boker Plus Pocket Bowie (440C) might do the trick...I really like the Boker Plus line (I have the SOB, BOB and PSK). They're compact, stainless, come with Kydex sheathing solutions...could easily be the ticket. If it's too small, the PSK and SOB are a tad bigger, 12C27 stainless. PSK is very thick in the blade for its size...but I see it as a plus, personally.

You could always get a folder like the Buck Flashpoint Hunter...it has a carabiner that you could use to hang it from a lanyard...could still work as a neck knife of sorts, but with alternate carrying options as well. http://www.amazon.com/Buck-FlashPoint-Hunting-Knife-Black/dp/B004TB69HE/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1372396120&sr=1-1&keywords=buck+knife


Then you have the Buck/TOPs collabo, the CSAR-T Liason. http://www.amazon.com/Buck-Tops-Csar-T-Liaison-Knife/dp/B006YBWXK4/ref=sr_1_21?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1372396120&sr=1-21&keywords=buck+knife 420HC...it's Buck...its TOPs...and it's less than $50. They have others with handle scales and such...but I think the skeletonized fits your intended usage better.

Hopefully something sticks...it's entirely reasonable to get all the things you want out of a neck knife...and I hope you find a great one.


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