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PostPosted: Sat Sep 09, 2017 9:19 am 
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Based on my personal storm experience it seems the first two items which get sold out are water and batteries. The reason being people fear being cut off without water in the dark. Who can blame anyone for that.

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Sometimes no matter how well a person preps or how strong they may be there are things which can not be fought. You simply have to be someplace else. Lots of things can go wrong in a disaster be it community wide or personal. It is best IMHO to have as many options as possible. Today there are options such as USB powerbanks and USB powered devices but I feel there will always be a place for a flashlight with replaceable batteries. Because batteries could be in short supply a picky eater might not be the best play. Speaking of playing having everyone on the same team tends to be best. Having omnivore options increases the change batteries can be shared from one device to another.

Here are some of my lights which were made into omnivores.

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Omnivore lights can be high voltage like this one which is up to 12ish volts.

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This one tops off at around 9 volts.

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These are nice but for storm prep and bugging I prefer a flashlight which can reliably operate with one battery of multiple types. The primary reason being I don't want to mix battery types and voltages. I want the light to work with as little fuss as possible.

This one has a max of 3.3 volts.

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Characteristics of a good omnivore light for an ER.

1. Durable and dependable. The light should be field tested first so it can be trusted to work when needed.

2. Long run times. A super bright flashlight eating batteries in an hour could become problematic fast. Lots of this is personal preference but it should be able to run for a reasonable time.

3. Should be able to use common battery types but also less common ones. Granted some get sold out faster than others but very often common battery types can be be found around the house even for people who don't prep. For example within 10 feet of me I found some AA batteries in case the 2XAA Eneloops in one of my omnivore lights are spent. I didn't even need to run to the store.

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4. Should have a physical lock out function. This could help mitigate the chance of an accidental activation which might drain the batteries.

5. Any lanyards should have a break away option.

It was raining so setup this shelter. Always have stuff in my pack in case I have to sleep out or just want to.

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3 Flashlights. One for the Adventure bag, 72 BOB and lastly the INCH.

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Omnivore spacers, extra tail caps and bodies. Even have an extra drop-in though odds are the M31L isn't going to fail.

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You need to keep your max and min voltage in mind.

1. G3 with Malkoff M31L has a range of .8 to 3.3 volts.
2. Armytek A2 (can be selected for battery type) 1 to 4.2 volts.
3. Quark Tactical lego .9 to 4.2 volts.

So starting from the top.

1XCR123 in extra body. 3 volts.
1X18650 in extra body 3.6 nominal volts.
1XAA Eneloop with spacer. 1.2 volts.
1XAAA Alkaline in AA converter with AA spacer. 1.5 volts.
2XAA Eneloops. 2.2 volts.
2XAAA Duralops in 2 AA spacers. 2.2 volts.
1XCR123 with CR123 spacer. 3 volts.
1X16340 Protected lithium ion with CR123 spacer. 3.6 volts.

Do not mix chemistry types and voltages as bad things can happen beyond simply blowing the light. One reason why using 1 battery can be advantageous. My advice is to use Eneloops/LED NiMH, lithium primaries and lithium ion. Do not store an ER light with alkaline batteries however naturally use whatever is on hand if needed. Don't exceed the voltage range or the light may fry. Having a lower end means 2XAA, 1XAA, 2XAAA and 1XAAA are usable but not 2XCR123 which are 6 volts. 1X Lithium ion is 4.2 volts off the charger and could fry a light not made for that much voltage.

For the INCH bag I added a 10 watt solar panel and solar compatible litium ion charger. Also have an Olight UC to cover everything else. Will work on the phone as well though the last IOS was not kind to solar charging.

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Looking good though odds are it wouldn't come to this.

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Don't forget to verify compatibility with all components. Just because it should work doesn't mean it will.

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The spacers and bodies are for the most part empty shells and unlike batteries not consumable though did have a cheap Ultra cell fail. Go figure? In any case the weight and bulk is almost not existent and less so as the bodies and converters can hold batteries. So it's easy to pack them along with additional batteries. They can be used for unexpected hiking and camping issues. For example the Fenix HL50 headlamp is a natural omnivore which can use AA and CR123. So the G3 with M31L can use the same batteries the HL50 can be it CR123 or AA. Everyone is on the same team.

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Lets break camp and have an omnivore situation. If the 2XAA in the light ran dry I have two options. The camera 2XAA and 1XAAA light. Playing prepper double or maybe triple redundancy the 1XAAA is broken though the AAA battery is still good.

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It's pitch black so clearly would use the 2XAA from the camera rather than an AAA from one flashlight for another but just having fun.

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A bit less fun is this spit tree just hanging on directly over the trail. I went around. 1XAAA in a light which can also use 1XCR123 (but not at the same time) doing it's job.

Action shots from video. 1XAAA did ok!

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I made it. LOL!

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Thanks for looking.


_________________
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"There's no such thing as bad weather, just inappropriate clothing"
"Do not mess with the forces of Nature, for thou art small and biodegradable!"

Best of Woods Walker's posts.


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