.357 Smith and Wesson *NOW W/ PICS!!!*

Handgun, Pistol and Revolver topics

Moderator: ZS Global Moderators

User avatar
400 Grains
* * * * *
Posts: 1110
Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2010 11:30 pm

Re: .357 Smith and Wesson

Post by 400 Grains » Sat Sep 01, 2012 4:21 pm

brothaman wrote:
URBAN ASSAULT wrote:
400 Grains wrote:
Please....please................do not home polish and cold blue a classic Smith revolver......
Ya know, I was thinking the EXACT same thing.

:clap:

Let a professional handle the restoration because then you know you will get that 'miles-deep' bluing and gloss that this weapon deserves. Also, as someone who hasn't been shy about taking a Dremel and a large buffer wheel to his own handguns(see the guns above), it is very, very easy to make a mistake and take it a little too far.

-urban


Geez,.. negative much?

A really nice job can be done at home. What people don't realize is the time that needs to be taken. Its not a 1 afternoon deal. You just have to stick with the polishing until its perfect. Perfect. If the polishing is perfect,.. the blue will follow suit. Besides,.. if you hose the job on your own, the gunsmith will charge you the same price regardless. I've never had a Smith quote me less because he thought the job would be easy.
The average guy cannot do justice to a fine revolver with Scotch Brite, a bench grinder, and cold blue. A Smith revolver has lots of angles and hard to get at areas. I've seen even so called "gunsmiths" make a good gun look like a pos, with gaps in the sideplate, ruined lettering, etc. That 581 is a jewel, hard to find as they didn't make that many, and very much in demand

Obviously, anyone can do what they want with their gun, but imho, it's a job for a professional.

User avatar
Browning 35
BANNED
Posts: 4698
Joined: Sat Aug 30, 2008 11:47 am
Favorite Zombie Movies: Dawn of the Dead (2004).
28 Days Later.
Planet Terror.
Dawn of the Dead (1978).
Night of the Living Dead (1968)
Omega Man
Location: Texas

Re: .357 Smith and Wesson

Post by Browning 35 » Sat Sep 01, 2012 5:01 pm

400 Grains wrote:The average guy cannot do justice to a fine revolver with Scotch Brite, a bench grinder, and cold blue. A Smith revolver has lots of angles and hard to get at areas. I've seen even so called "gunsmiths" make a good gun look like a pos, with gaps in the sideplate, ruined lettering, etc. That 581 is a jewel, hard to find as they didn't make that many, and very much in demand

Obviously, anyone can do what they want with their gun, but imho, it's a job for a professional.
I've seen some really horrible home finish blue/paint jobs and then I've seen some really good ones. This BHP is one that was re-finished at home and I thought it came out looking really well (Not by me).

Image

Image

From this..>>>This Thread<<<

IMHO it depends on using the right paint and how much skill, patience and attention to detail the person in question brings to the table. I've painted/refinished a few guns and mine tend to run the gambit from mediocre/functional to pretty good.

It also depends on what the gun's purpose is. I've also seen 'professionals' fuck up blue jobs. Obviously your chances of having the re-finished gun come out looking good are greater when having a professional do it rather than doing it yourself. I'm just saying that it can be done and don't discount it altogether.
Mr. E. Monkey wrote:
Evan the Diplomat wrote:Why do you want to shoot penguins? What did they ever do to you?
It's that smug, superior attitude of theirs, strutting around in their fancy outfits like they're better than everyone else. Yeah, burn in hell, you snobbish bird bastards.

And don't get me started on pandas!

User avatar
400 Grains
* * * * *
Posts: 1110
Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2010 11:30 pm

Re: .357 Smith and Wesson

Post by 400 Grains » Sat Sep 01, 2012 5:34 pm

Browning 35 wrote:
400 Grains wrote:The average guy cannot do justice to a fine revolver with Scotch Brite, a bench grinder, and cold blue. A Smith revolver has lots of angles and hard to get at areas. I've seen even so called "gunsmiths" make a good gun look like a pos, with gaps in the sideplate, ruined lettering, etc. That 581 is a jewel, hard to find as they didn't make that many, and very much in demand

Obviously, anyone can do what they want with their gun, but imho, it's a job for a professional.
I've seen some really horrible home finish blue/paint jobs and then I've seen some really good ones. This BHP is one that was re-finished at home and I thought it came out looking really well (Not by me).

Image

Image

From this..>>>This Thread<<<

IMHO it depends on using the right paint and how much skill, patience and attention to detail the person in question brings to the table. I've painted/refinished a few guns and mine tend to run the gambit from mediocre/functional to pretty good.

It also depends on what the gun's purpose is. I've also seen 'professionals' fuck up blue jobs. Obviously your chances of having the re-finished gun come out looking good are greater when having a professional do it rather than doing it yourself. I'm just saying that it can be done and don't discount it altogether.
Well, that's a paint job, not the home polish and reblue that was being discussed, but I wouldn't paint a neat old Smith revolver either..... but that's just me.

User avatar
Browning 35
BANNED
Posts: 4698
Joined: Sat Aug 30, 2008 11:47 am
Favorite Zombie Movies: Dawn of the Dead (2004).
28 Days Later.
Planet Terror.
Dawn of the Dead (1978).
Night of the Living Dead (1968)
Omega Man
Location: Texas

Re: .357 Smith and Wesson *NOW W/ PICS!!!*

Post by Browning 35 » Sat Sep 01, 2012 6:16 pm

I guess I can see what you mean and see why you'd separate the two, but in my mind it's still a way of giving gun a Protectant instead of just having bare metal or an original OEM finish that's rusting and pitted. :Shrug
Mr. E. Monkey wrote:
Evan the Diplomat wrote:Why do you want to shoot penguins? What did they ever do to you?
It's that smug, superior attitude of theirs, strutting around in their fancy outfits like they're better than everyone else. Yeah, burn in hell, you snobbish bird bastards.

And don't get me started on pandas!

User avatar
400 Grains
* * * * *
Posts: 1110
Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2010 11:30 pm

Re: .357 Smith and Wesson *NOW W/ PICS!!!*

Post by 400 Grains » Sat Sep 01, 2012 8:16 pm

Browning 35 wrote:I guess I can see what you mean and see why you'd separate the two, but in my mind it's still a way of giving gun a Protectant instead of just having bare metal or an original OEM finish that's rusting and pitted. :Shrug
Great idea for a Glock or an AR.

Not so hot for an old hard to find classic revolver..... in my opinion that is....

User avatar
Browning 35
BANNED
Posts: 4698
Joined: Sat Aug 30, 2008 11:47 am
Favorite Zombie Movies: Dawn of the Dead (2004).
28 Days Later.
Planet Terror.
Dawn of the Dead (1978).
Night of the Living Dead (1968)
Omega Man
Location: Texas

Re: .357 Smith and Wesson *NOW W/ PICS!!!*

Post by Browning 35 » Sat Sep 01, 2012 8:32 pm

That's cool, to each their own. :)

You're right.... paint is more seen on 'Black Rifles & Pistols', but I've seen a few examples on revolvers using this same type of gloss and semi-gloss paint where I thought it still looked nice.
Mr. E. Monkey wrote:
Evan the Diplomat wrote:Why do you want to shoot penguins? What did they ever do to you?
It's that smug, superior attitude of theirs, strutting around in their fancy outfits like they're better than everyone else. Yeah, burn in hell, you snobbish bird bastards.

And don't get me started on pandas!

User avatar
brothaman
* * * * *
Posts: 1041
Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2011 1:40 pm
Location: SC

Re: .357 Smith and Wesson

Post by brothaman » Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:31 am

400 Grains wrote: The average guy cannot do justice to a fine revolver with Scotch Brite, a bench grinder, and cold blue. A Smith revolver has lots of angles and hard to get at areas. I've seen even so called "gunsmiths" make a good gun look like a pos, with gaps in the sideplate, ruined lettering, etc. That 581 is a jewel, hard to find as they didn't make that many, and very much in demand

Obviously, anyone can do what they want with their gun, but imho, it's a job for a professional.
That is true. I've done a shit ton of polishing steel and aluminum growing up. My dad builds hot rods so he put me to polishing early. He built a '30 model Ford that I polished every fricken thing under the hood on. It really made me hate that car. One of my problems is assuming that if I can do something,.. so can anyone else. Which is true 95% of the time. I've already made all my mistakes with polishing.

ScotchBrite is only the beginning or a really long process and I didn't explain that. Its just for cleanup When you have the correct tools,.. you can get it done quickly and do a good job, When you have "good enough" tools,.. you can do a good job,. but it takes a heap of work.
It stops being funny when it starts being you.

User avatar
mk_ultra
* * * * *
Posts: 3880
Joined: Sat Mar 10, 2007 8:14 pm
Location: Mpls , Mn

Re: .357 Smith and Wesson *NOW W/ PICS!!!*

Post by mk_ultra » Tue Sep 04, 2012 6:32 pm

I used this stuff on a ratty old Model 19 I had back in the day . Worked great .

http://www.flitz.com/c-16-gun-knife.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
This calls for a very special blend of psychology and extreme violence - Vyvyan

User avatar
doc66
* * * * *
Posts: 5710
Joined: Wed Mar 08, 2006 11:56 am
Location: Back home in Tennessee
Contact:

Re: .357 Smith and Wesson

Post by doc66 » Tue Sep 04, 2012 8:33 pm

400 Grains wrote:
brothaman wrote:
DarkGhost wrote:Here we go...

Image

It has NOT had the factory recall service done from the 80's per S&W Customer Service. Also talked to a local gunsmith who will go over it and send it to Ionbond to be re-coated for $280. What do ya guys think? I wanna go with Hogue rubber grips on it, and possibly a matte black or dark grey(sniper grey -Cerakote). And please remember I have $0 in this gun, so I really don't mind spending some on it. It was a "wedding present" from my Dad. :evil: Oh yeah, and what are those numbers under the Model #?c Thanks again all who are answering this thread!!!
Dood! That thing will clean up super nice! Get some scotch bright pads and oil and clean all the rust (the rust looks really light to me) then put a polishing wheel on your bench grinder to clean up the rest. After its all shiny,.. use a good quality cold blue and your Gold! That gun will be super bad ass and cool! or if you want to go with a matte finish, have your smith bead blast and parkerize it.

pachmayr sux, hougue rool
Please....please................do not home polish and cold blue a classic Smith revolver......
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^What he said.

That is too classic to fuck with it at home. Seeing it that way, it makes me sad.
Image
http://www.milcopptactical.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

User avatar
landser
* *
Posts: 245
Joined: Mon Aug 10, 2009 1:35 pm

Re: .357 Smith and Wesson

Post by landser » Wed Sep 05, 2012 12:18 am

400 Grains wrote:
landser wrote:The 110 gr hollowpoint fielded in the 80s was determined by some accounts to have upwards of 90% + one shot stop rate in center of mass. Many states were included in the study.
Fiction......
One shot stop is not a myth. Its just not repeatable or reliable.

I am sure you can let Masad Ayoob know how you feel Telephone: (603)224-6814
http://www.theprepperdude.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; your more than welcome to contribute an article if you wish

Doctorr Fabulous
ZS Lifetime Member
ZS Lifetime Member
Posts: 12210
Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2009 3:06 pm
Favorite Zombie Movies: Evil Dead, Zombieland, 28 Days/Weeks Later

Re: .357 Smith and Wesson *NOW W/ PICS!!!*

Post by Doctorr Fabulous » Wed Sep 05, 2012 12:31 am

Not repeatable...not reliable...so why post about it or try to defend it if it's essentially an anomaly? Just curious.
Opinions subject to change in light of new information.
Image
http://i.imgur.com/wG6ZMjE.jpg

User avatar
AS556
* * * * *
Posts: 1099
Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2011 6:31 pm
Favorite Zombie Movies: Dawn of the Dead ('04),28 Days Later,Shaun of the Dead,Zombieland
Location: Pacific Northwest

Re: .357 Smith and Wesson

Post by AS556 » Wed Sep 05, 2012 1:04 am

Kind of OT but I have a Glenfield Marlin 60 that has I believe a blued finish, it has some light surface rust on the barrel what's the best way to remove it?

Doctorr Fabulous
ZS Lifetime Member
ZS Lifetime Member
Posts: 12210
Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2009 3:06 pm
Favorite Zombie Movies: Evil Dead, Zombieland, 28 Days/Weeks Later

Re: .357 Smith and Wesson

Post by Doctorr Fabulous » Wed Sep 05, 2012 1:10 am

AK47Heaven wrote:Kind of OT but I have a Glenfield Marlin 60 that has I believe a blued finish, it has some light surface rust on the barrel what's the best way to remove it?
CLP and a nylon brush.
Opinions subject to change in light of new information.
Image
http://i.imgur.com/wG6ZMjE.jpg

User avatar
doc66
* * * * *
Posts: 5710
Joined: Wed Mar 08, 2006 11:56 am
Location: Back home in Tennessee
Contact:

Re: .357 Smith and Wesson

Post by doc66 » Wed Sep 05, 2012 8:01 am

landser wrote:
400 Grains wrote:
landser wrote:The 110 gr hollowpoint fielded in the 80s was determined by some accounts to have upwards of 90% + one shot stop rate in center of mass. Many states were included in the study.
Fiction......
One shot stop is not a myth. Its just not repeatable or reliable.

I am sure you can let Masad Ayoob know how you feel Telephone: (603)224-6814
It not a myth, no (well, if we can agree that all myths have a base in some kind of fact), there are of examples and recorded reports of one shot stops. But, making it the basis of the effectiveness of a round is where the fallacy lies. (And I think it was the 124 grain HP, wasn't it?) Because it is not repeatable, or reliable, is a reason to discount the findings of the testers. In other words; the hypothesis is not true because we can not repeat it. And remember this was the 1980s when HP ammo was just getting off the ground, when the 158 LSWHP was the round that everyone carried in their duty gun and Silver Tip was used by the FBI in the 9mm--because that's all we had.

We've come A LOT further than the 110/124 HP of yore, there are far better rounds out there now.

I love the Mass number, good one. I have his email too. You get it when you take a MAG/LFI class. I don't always agree with Mass, he get's stuck somewhere in 1995 sometimes, but I'll take him on my defense team in court.
Image
http://www.milcopptactical.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

rklessdriver
*
Posts: 62
Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 10:27 pm
Location: NOVA

Re: .357 Smith and Wesson *NOW W/ PICS!!!*

Post by rklessdriver » Wed Sep 05, 2012 7:01 pm

Congrats on the S&W M581... With that much neglect and surface rust I would bead blast and Parkerize it.... In-fact a few years ago I bought a neglected S&W M15 and this is what a Blast and Park job looks like.....

Image


It's been a great finish... Very low maintenance.

As for ammo... Remington 125gr SJHP.

Image

Will

User avatar
doc66
* * * * *
Posts: 5710
Joined: Wed Mar 08, 2006 11:56 am
Location: Back home in Tennessee
Contact:

Re: .357 Smith and Wesson *NOW W/ PICS!!!*

Post by doc66 » Wed Sep 05, 2012 10:36 pm

That park finish is kind of cool looking, actually. I have a pre-57 Chiefs Special that someone left laying on a wet rag or, shoved under the car seat, and the left side is all browned and pitted. I kind of want to keep it original, but it's not worth much as it sits. I'd like to blue it, but afraid that the damage is too deep. Park might be an answer.

Didn't Colt do one of the Detective Specials in park--the Commando, or something?
Image
http://www.milcopptactical.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

User avatar
DarkGhost
ZS Lifetime Member
ZS Lifetime Member
Posts: 307
Joined: Sat May 19, 2012 4:56 pm
Location: Charlotte, NC

Re: .357 Smith and Wesson *NOW W/ PICS!!!*

Post by DarkGhost » Fri Sep 07, 2012 1:16 pm

Cleaned her up, went to the range today and test fired. I really need to get used to this gun, as my target will tell. Grabbed a pair of speedloaders and a Fobus paddle holster. Used Georgia Arms 110 GR JHP Speer Bonded Unicore Ammo, 1400 FPS. Fired 38 shots at the target. Thanks for looking and for all the advice so far!

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

:clap:
Vita brevis, Gloria aeterna

Image

DarkGhost's Go Bag

User avatar
400 Grains
* * * * *
Posts: 1110
Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2010 11:30 pm

Re: .357 Smith and Wesson

Post by 400 Grains » Fri Sep 07, 2012 4:06 pm

landser wrote:
400 Grains wrote:
landser wrote:The 110 gr hollowpoint fielded in the 80s was determined by some accounts to have upwards of 90% + one shot stop rate in center of mass. Many states were included in the study.
Fiction......
One shot stop is not a myth. Its just not repeatable or reliable.
Thank you, I'm glad you agree. It's also irrelevant.

And some of the charlatans who flogged such bogus studies involving "one shot stops" were exposed for who they were. Writers of fiction.
landser wrote:I am sure you can let Masad Ayoob know how you feel Telephone: (603)224-6814
I've spoken to him in person several times in years past at various conventions, ASLET, etc. I think he grasped my position pretty well.

Fortunately, folks in the wound ballistics community have other resources than gunwriters. But please, feel free to enjoy..... Ayoob writes extremely entertaining articles.... Much easier reading than scientific papers.

User avatar
400 Grains
* * * * *
Posts: 1110
Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2010 11:30 pm

Re: .357 Smith and Wesson *NOW W/ PICS!!!*

Post by 400 Grains » Fri Sep 07, 2012 4:21 pm

DarkGhost wrote:Cleaned her up, went to the range today and test fired. I really need to get used to this gun, as my target will tell. Grabbed a pair of speedloaders and a Fobus paddle holster. Used Georgia Arms 110 GR JHP Speer Bonded Unicore Ammo, 1400 FPS. Fired 38 shots at the target. Thanks for looking and for all the advice so far!
You're doing fine. You might want to put some more shooter friendly grips on it. Being old school, (emphasis on old)..I'm a fan of rubberey type grips such as Pachmayr or Hogues, though the guys who look at their guns more than shoot them often find them too "ugly".... :wink: And unless someone else has worked on it already, either an action job from someone who knows what they're doing, or a spring kit from Wolf, can make a big difference in your shooting too.

And you'll find that 110 grain bullets will usually shoot a little low in the fixed sight Smiths, they're usually closer to point of aim with 148-158 grain bullets.

You have a classic gun that a lot of guys would love to own. As far as it's finish, you can even choose to do nothing to it. Go over it with some 0000 steel wool and oil to take the rest of the rust off, and then keep a little oil on it, and it will be OK. I have several old well "experienced" blue guns, including a couple that I carried 30 years ago, and I'm happy just leaving them as is.

Have fun! While learning the double action stroke can be challenging, once you get the hang of it, you'll be shooting rings around a lot of guys with their plastic autos... :mrgreen:

User avatar
400 Grains
* * * * *
Posts: 1110
Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2010 11:30 pm

Re: .357 Smith and Wesson

Post by 400 Grains » Fri Sep 07, 2012 4:26 pm

AK47Heaven wrote:Kind of OT but I have a Glenfield Marlin 60 that has I believe a blued finish, it has some light surface rust on the barrel what's the best way to remove it?
As Doc said, CLP and a nylon brush will do a lot. 0000 steel wool and CLP, Kroil, etc., used carefully, will take even more off, without removing finish.

Doctorr Fabulous
ZS Lifetime Member
ZS Lifetime Member
Posts: 12210
Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2009 3:06 pm
Favorite Zombie Movies: Evil Dead, Zombieland, 28 Days/Weeks Later

Re: .357 Smith and Wesson

Post by Doctorr Fabulous » Fri Sep 07, 2012 4:42 pm

400 Grains wrote:
AK47Heaven wrote:Kind of OT but I have a Glenfield Marlin 60 that has I believe a blued finish, it has some light surface rust on the barrel what's the best way to remove it?
As Doc said, CLP and a nylon brush will do a lot. 0000 steel wool and CLP, Kroil, etc., used carefully, will take even more off, without removing finish.
As I gave that recommendation, I was cleaning 20 years of rust off of a Schrade skinner ("Old Timer" I think) that my grandad gave me. It's still deeply pitted, but now it's starting to look like a Stormcrow version of the pattern, original scales and sheath notwithstanding. Not a spec of rust though, and nothing but Breakfree and a toothbrush used.
Opinions subject to change in light of new information.
Image
http://i.imgur.com/wG6ZMjE.jpg

User avatar
AS556
* * * * *
Posts: 1099
Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2011 6:31 pm
Favorite Zombie Movies: Dawn of the Dead ('04),28 Days Later,Shaun of the Dead,Zombieland
Location: Pacific Northwest

Re: .357 Smith and Wesson

Post by AS556 » Sat Sep 08, 2012 7:12 am

Doc Torr wrote:
400 Grains wrote:
AK47Heaven wrote:Kind of OT but I have a Glenfield Marlin 60 that has I believe a blued finish, it has some light surface rust on the barrel what's the best way to remove it?
As Doc said, CLP and a nylon brush will do a lot. 0000 steel wool and CLP, Kroil, etc., used carefully, will take even more off, without removing finish.
As I gave that recommendation, I was cleaning 20 years of rust off of a Schrade skinner ("Old Timer" I think) that my grandad gave me. It's still deeply pitted, but now it's starting to look like a Stormcrow version of the pattern, original scales and sheath notwithstanding. Not a spec of rust though, and nothing but Breakfree and a toothbrush used.

Thanks guys.Literally exactly what I wanted to know.

Post Reply

Return to “Handguns”