Painting an M1a Scout

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FreuderLocks
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Painting an M1a Scout

Post by FreuderLocks » Thu Jun 05, 2014 1:45 pm

Hello again all.

I have a few questions about painting an M1a scout. I plan on doing a desert tan single coat job on my scout and I wanted to know about the possibility of painting the op rod. I plan on stripping the rifle down to the barreled action. I will remove the sights, which will remain black parkerized, painting the brake, external parts of the gas system, doing all the correct prep. removing the trigger group and leaving it as is as well as the butt plate and various hardware. Really just painting the receiver op rod and barrel. As far as the op rod goes, can I paint the roller channel on the inside? I plan on using alumahyde as it has served my purposes very well in the past with AK's. Ill either preserve the serial numbers with white out, which I will later remove, or refill them with some black paint by hand. Any thoughts on this? I was also thinking about doing the bolt but eh, IDK. Any advice other than 'do your prep work' would be greatly appreciated. Thank you again all.
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Re: Painting an M1a Scout

Post by Kutter_0311 » Sat Jul 12, 2014 6:54 pm

I started with a base coat of tan in my camo AK, but it took several proper light coats to cover the black. I only removed the sling, and put tape over the sights. Rattle can, FTW!
JAYNE COBB wrote: Well, what you plan and what takes place ain't ever exactly been similar.
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minengr wrote:I've said it numerous times, a quality rig is only as good as it's weakest link. Which usually is the nut behind the butt.

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Re: Painting an M1a Scout

Post by Molon Labe » Sat Jul 12, 2014 7:37 pm

Rattle can indeed FTW. Once I started DIY camp on my gear for the first time, I couldn't stop. Knives, guns, packs. It's a fun hobby.
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Re: Painting an M1a Scout

Post by FreuderLocks » Wed Jul 16, 2014 9:45 pm

Ive done some paint on my AKs and stuff like that. the real question is, what should I NOT paint, i want to do the bolt but, well, its a bolt lol. and the insides of the receiver, but then again those are the rifles operating guts, should I avoid those?
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Re: Painting an M1a Scout

Post by Jeriah » Wed Jul 16, 2014 10:43 pm

Short version, don't paint any metal that touches other metal. Don't paint anything you lubricate (basically the same thing). Don't paint anything where a tiny dimensional change could cause a malfunction.

Personally I err on the side of not painting moving parts, but this isn't vital.

I don't know the M1A well, but I'd say there are about 2 versions:

1. With the action closed, put an earplug in the muzzle, and hit it all with rattlecan. Should be fine. Keep the coats light so you don't "paint it shut."

2. Basically as you described, disassemble, paint each part separately. In this case, and again I'm no expert, but I'd say don't paint anything internal or anything that bears, rubs, presses, or slides against anything else.
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Re: Painting an M1a Scout

Post by Doctorr Fabulous » Wed Jul 16, 2014 10:44 pm

Jeriah wrote:Short version, don't paint any metal that touches other metal. Don't paint anything you lubricate (basically the same thing). Don't paint anything where a tiny dimensional change could cause a malfunction.

Personally I err on the side of not painting moving parts, but this isn't vital.

I don't know the M1A well, but I'd say there are about 2 versions:

1. With the action closed, put an earplug in the muzzle, and hit it all with rattlecan. Should be fine. Keep the coats light so you don't "paint it shut."

2. Basically as you described, disassemble, paint each part separately. In this case, and again I'm no expert, but I'd say don't paint anything internal or anything that bears, rubs, presses, or slides against anything else.
To add to number uno, use an index card to prevent overspray from getting into sensitive areas. Paint bit-by-bit.
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Re: Painting an M1a Scout

Post by Kutter_0311 » Sun Jul 20, 2014 6:30 pm

Jeriah wrote:1. With the action closed, put an earplug in the muzzle, and hit it all with rattlecan. Should be fine. Keep the coats light
With the addition of tape over the sights, this should be fine.

Paint isn't going to be too permanent, and anything that moves should break free easy enough.

This is a .308, so firing should get the moving parts moving :awesome:
JAYNE COBB wrote: Well, what you plan and what takes place ain't ever exactly been similar.
TravisM.1 wrote:If a rifle is an option, a rifle is usually the answer.
minengr wrote:I've said it numerous times, a quality rig is only as good as it's weakest link. Which usually is the nut behind the butt.

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