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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2016 10:23 am 
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I've done some stupid shit reloading shot shell. Anything with a flat side does crazy stuff. The bigger the item is, the worse it reacts. Weight mitigates the the lack of aerodynamics somewhat. It really makes sense if you take a second to think about it. I've never loaded dimes, but I did load some 30 cal gas checks, some very small washers, small pieces of this and that from the shop floor, and lots of other stuff. When items were very irregular I used filler powder to make up the space. It was all crap. Thing only think I found to work OK out to 25 yards was spent primers. Even that would suck for and real defense. It might work fine for small game hunting. All that was done in a crappy pitted 12 GA single shot H&R barrel. Modified choke if that matters.

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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2016 11:15 am 
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I'll probably cut the glue out of these cases when I get the time, and I'm keeping an eye out for some shot moulds through local shows or other sources. I'll find out soon enough if these will cycle in my pumps, though I don't have any interest in trying them in a semi. Odds are too high a misfeed would fuck something up, if I'm lucky, it would just be a case.

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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2016 11:52 am 
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http://www.theboxotruth.com/the-box-o-truth-35-a-load-of-dimes-vs-the-box-o-truth/

BoT got a 6" spread at 12 FEET and the same penetration in a water jug as birdshot. Any other testing is welcome, but this seems like something made up by a writer and repeated until it gained credibility.

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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 6:34 am 
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I've been reloading for 25 years I do know that the dimes won't work properly if at all. I'm not sure your right about the deer thing. Geesh you really are an uptight jarhead.

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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 7:09 am 
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If a "buck" shot is not based on a male deer, what is bird shot named after?

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PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2016 4:33 am 
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bigred362 wrote:
I've been reloading for 25 years I do know that the dimes won't work properly if at all. I'm not sure your right about the deer thing. Geesh you really are an uptight jarhead.

"Buck and Ball" and "buckshot" both date to at least the American Revolutionary War, well before the introduction of the cartridge shotgun. Instructions for "buck and ball" musket loads can be be found in the 1841 US Ordnance manual. Further, in an age where you would load your own rounds, melting the dimes down to make shot makes far more sense than shooting dimes.

There's no reason to keep repeating an unfounded myth when you have the greatest library in the world at your finger tips. We should be putting myths to rest, not repeating them as truths.

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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2016 11:44 pm 
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Anyone local to Austin who reloads shotshells?

I've got about 8 5-gallon buckets worth of shells from indoor & outdoor ranges. Most of these are actually pretty clean. I get them because they're in the same 55 gallon barrels I use to collect ammo trays as part of the recycling pilot program I'm running locally.

I have no intent on reloading these, but someone nearby might like to have them all.

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PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2016 5:52 pm 
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zombieapocalypsegame wrote:
Anyone local to Austin who reloads shotshells?

I've got about 8 5-gallon buckets worth of shells from indoor & outdoor ranges. Most of these are actually pretty clean. I get them because they're in the same 55 gallon barrels I use to collect ammo trays as part of the recycling pilot program I'm running locally.

I have no intent on reloading these, but someone nearby might like to have them all.


My neighbor and I used to but frankly, for 12 gauge anyway it's just as cheap (and in some cases cheaper) to buy new.

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PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2016 7:22 pm 
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@91Eunozs

I hear you on the shells. You have to have a shot maker for this to truly be worthwhile. Hence why I cast my own lead projectiles myself. I just decided it wasn't a priority to go down the shotgun route personally.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 4:29 pm 
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Looking to start reloading for my .223 rifle. It's a Savage 11 with a 22" barrel that has a 1:9 twist. The main purpose of this rifle is shooting small groups into paper at 200 yards.

I've mostly shot 55 grain bullets through it so far, as that's what was common and cheap. I was looking up ideal bullet weights for a 1:9 twist, and I've seen some recommendations for ~69 grain bullets and some for ~62 grain bullets.

Do you think it would be better to buy a wide range of bullet weights and see which one performs best first, and then next try different brands at around the same weight? Or should I just pick a certain weight and skip the first step of trying a very wide variety of bullet weights?

Any recommendations of bullet weights, bullet makes/models and powder would be appreciated. I'm going to try to keep this relatively inexpensive. I will most likely be shooting it a further ranges than 200 on occasion.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2016 2:27 pm 
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quazi wrote:
Looking to start reloading for my .223 rifle. It's a Savage 11 with a 22" barrel that has a 1:9 twist. The main purpose of this rifle is shooting small groups into paper at 200 yards.

I've mostly shot 55 grain bullets through it so far, as that's what was common and cheap. I was looking up ideal bullet weights for a 1:9 twist, and I've seen some recommendations for ~69 grain bullets and some for ~62 grain bullets.

Do you think it would be better to buy a wide range of bullet weights and see which one performs best first, and then next try different brands at around the same weight? Or should I just pick a certain weight and skip the first step of trying a very wide variety of bullet weights?

Any recommendations of bullet weights, bullet makes/models and powder would be appreciated. I'm going to try to keep this relatively inexpensive. I will most likely be shooting it a further ranges than 200 on occasion.


It depends on if you want to shoot a heavy bullet. Not being sarcastic. If the weight matters, start developing loads with 70 gr bullet and less, if not then 45 and up. There is no magic weight range that a 1/9 will shot, just the heaviest it will stabilize. Even then you might find that it will shoot well with some bullets heavier than recommended.
Now, with that said, if you just want to do cheap target shooting, start with the a variety of cheap 55 grainers. There's a lot of them. VMaxes seem to do well for a lot of guys. You're just going to have to try bullets until you find what your gun likes. Or,.. if you're lucky, and some folks are, you might find that your rifle likes a lot of different bullets.

Personally, I'd try to find a 62 gr or 55 gr soft point that would shoot well. Just in case you decide to take out some varmints or hunt deer (gasp!) with your 223 you'll have a bullet that is good for both target and field. The you'd have it all. Economy, Accuracy and the right bullet for game.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2016 3:26 pm 
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I had 55, 62 and 68 grain Hornady FMJ that was on the less expensive end in my cart. I'll add some Winchester soft points as well, they are some of the least expensive.

No deer where I live, but I do want something that will deal well with coyotes and fox. I'd like to get an AR setup for that job though.

I was looking at Winchester 748 or IMR 4198 for powder. From my limited research it looks like a lot of different powders will work well.

Edit: I should probably try some V-Maxes as well. This is getting expensive quick.

My goal is less than $0.33/shot, which would mean I could load up my fifteen round magazine and shoot a three round group into each of the five bullseyes on my target for less than $5. If I end up going a little bit over it's not that big of a deal.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2016 9:32 am 
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Yea,.. a lot of powders work well in 223. I would suggest starting with what ever you have on hand that's might be appropriate just to stay as consolidated as possible. 4198 is a classic 223 powder. 335 is another good one that goes beyond 223 and does well. Really, you can loads a tons of carts with 335. Check the data on the Hodgdon site. While 335 might not give you optimum speed across all carts it's appropriate for It has been know for being fairly accurate across the board. I've loaded in the 223 with good results. CFE223 is another good choice. I've gotten good result with it in 223, 30-30, and 308. I haven't tried it in other carts yet, but I have high hopes for it in other cartridges. 223 is pretty forgiving as a far as reloading for accuracy goes.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2016 12:31 pm 
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I'll have to check out 335. I haven't started reloading for rifles yet. I already bought a pound of 4831 for my .30-06 and a pound of 7828 for my .300 win mag. Those were recommended to me by the guy who is teaching me to reload.

I'm going to be reloading for .223, .30-06, .300 WM and .375 H&H.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 16, 2016 6:14 pm 
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I got 2lbs of 4198 for free, that's what got me started into reloading. It works great, some of my favorite boolits to shoot are those reloads (I like the smell :clap:). But because I've gotten into doing subsonic reloads for my 300blk I pick up a pound or 2 every time I see 1680 on the shelf at sportsman's warehouse. Not sure how well it would do for you but I've done some reloads with it for 223 and it seems to be just fine and supersonic loads for the 300blk are packed a little tight but they sure have some power behind them.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 12:23 pm 
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quazi wrote:
I'll have to check out 335. I haven't started reloading for rifles yet. I already bought a pound of 4831 for my .30-06 and a pound of 7828 for my .300 win mag. Those were recommended to me by the guy who is teaching me to reload.

I'm going to be reloading for .223, .30-06, .300 WM and .375 H&H.


Young hobbit, H4895 is your one chance to rule them all.

But,.. If I were you and trying to keep my consumables to a minimum selection, but still make upper end velocities, then I'd look as 4895, 4350, 4198, 4831. Likely, and this is just an educated guess, 4895 and 4350 are your best picks. But, it depends on your rifles. 4350 is classic for 375 HH, 300 WM, and 30-06. 4198 and 4895 are goto's for 223 and 308. If 4350 can 4895 will work for you in all your rifles, then you'd also be set for a wide range of other cartridges. I only use Hodgdon made powers, I can't speak much to other brands.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2016 2:08 pm 
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Ok, what reloading book(s) are most highly recommended right now? I seem to have misplaced my original book, and I think it was originally written in 2003, so it is missing some new powders and bullets.

I"m especially interested in load data for the .38 using BE-86 by Alliant. They tickled my fanny when they said "contains flash suppressants...." There is some load data on Alliant's website and it covers my current needs, but I should get a new book with newer powder and load data. I"m getting back into the reloading game here.

Any suggestions are appreciated! Thanks!!!

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2016 6:44 pm 
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What's the current Lyman book? I bought 49 a few years ago, still feels relevant, but if there's a 50 or newer, that's where I suggest you go. I also have a Nosler book, I think mine is 7, with an 8th edition available on shelves? Then I have the Lyman pistol book (unknown edition) which has a few more loads than the standard Lyman. I've held the Hornady book in my hand a few times, but so far talked myself out of it.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2016 1:16 am 
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There's nothing wrong with old books either unless you're reloading for a special application like .300 BO. My suggestion is always the bargain bins first. I traded a couple boxes of .45LC for a bunch of brass, lead, and a couple manuals. The reloading manual alone was worth more than the $25 in ammo.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2016 7:19 am 
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If I could only have two reloading books it'd be The ABCs of Reloading and the latest Lyman manual. The ABCs book is just excellent reference for everything. Any time I've had an issue I've found the answer there. The Lyman manual gives a good spread of different bullets and powders. Anything else I get from the Hodgdon site and annual mag.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 10:51 am 
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Woof. It's been a while since I've been on. I just finished my reloading bench(well, the bench part anyways, still need shelves) in my basement and have moved everything in. So much better than being in the unheated garage. Also means I'm going to spend more money because I'll be reloading more often. :rofl:


As for books, The Lyman 50th is out now. I'd recommend that. If you want to save some money, the 49th is great as well. The 50th has a few more calibers(300 Blackout for one), but if you only plan on reloading traditional calibers, 49 is just as good. I also have the Hornady and Sierra as well that i use.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 11:43 am 
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Hey all, so I was cycling some 300BO rounds through my AR to make sure I wasn't over crimping them. After I noticed every single one had a firing pin imprint on them. I checked to make sure the caps were seated properly and they weren't bulging at all. Checked my firing pin and it seems to be in spec, this gun only has about 200rds through it.

Is there anything I am doing wrong? I've never noticed it before on either my 300BO or my 223. I'm going to go home and swap BCGs and see if it makes a difference.

Also, finally got a powder measure! I wasn't sure what to go with and was looking at reviews one I was looking at was like 230$ the other 30$. Just decided to get the Lee one, once calibrated it throws a charge usually right on the money. I still measure each charge as it's habit and it's still not fully calibrated. so it will be off .005 (the best my scale will indicate) of a gram. This is greatly increased my reloading speed.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 12:13 pm 
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Halfapint wrote:
Hey all, so I was cycling some 300BO rounds through my AR to make sure I wasn't over crimping them. After I noticed every single one had a firing pin imprint on them. I checked to make sure the caps were seated properly and they weren't bulging at all. Checked my firing pin and it seems to be in spec, this gun only has about 200rds through it.

Is there anything I am doing wrong? I've never noticed it before on either my 300BO or my 223. I'm going to go home and swap BCGs and see if it makes a difference.

Also, finally got a powder measure! I wasn't sure what to go with and was looking at reviews one I was looking at was like 230$ the other 30$. Just decided to get the Lee one, once calibrated it throws a charge usually right on the money. I still measure each charge as it's habit and it's still not fully calibrated. so it will be off .005 (the best my scale will indicate) of a gram. This is greatly increased my reloading speed.


So on the firing pin imprints: I am not an AR guy, but I have frequently seen that on ranges when there is live ammo on the ground (classes). I asked an instructor about that, thinking they were light strikes, and he said that is normal for ARs. In fact he said, that means your AR is in spec. Now if he was wrong, then cool, someone will correct me, and I"d rather know the truth, but that is what he told me. :?:

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 1:08 pm 
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woodsghost wrote:
Halfapint wrote:
Hey all, so I was cycling some 300BO rounds through my AR to make sure I wasn't over crimping them. After I noticed every single one had a firing pin imprint on them. I checked to make sure the caps were seated properly and they weren't bulging at all. Checked my firing pin and it seems to be in spec, this gun only has about 200rds through it.

Is there anything I am doing wrong? I've never noticed it before on either my 300BO or my 223. I'm going to go home and swap BCGs and see if it makes a difference.

Also, finally got a powder measure! I wasn't sure what to go with and was looking at reviews one I was looking at was like 230$ the other 30$. Just decided to get the Lee one, once calibrated it throws a charge usually right on the money. I still measure each charge as it's habit and it's still not fully calibrated. so it will be off .005 (the best my scale will indicate) of a gram. This is greatly increased my reloading speed.


So on the firing pin imprints: I am not an AR guy, but I have frequently seen that on ranges when there is live ammo on the ground (classes). I asked an instructor about that, thinking they were light strikes, and he said that is normal for ARs. In fact he said, that means your AR is in spec. Now if he was wrong, then cool, someone will correct me, and I"d rather know the truth, but that is what he told me. :?:

Not a light strike, the AR has a free-floating firing pin that will gently mark soft primers. Glocks will do it too.

Light-strike means the firing pin dropped but did not ignite the round, and is common when using poorly tuned (read: clipped springs) guns with harder primers.

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