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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 9:59 pm 
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So there have been a few reloading questions popping up here and there.
There was talk of a reloading sub-forum
There was mention of a reloading chat

So heres one, don't screw it up :lol: :lol:

Just finished rolling up another k of 45 acp - now if it would just stay cool for a while so I can fire up the lead pot. I just got the jackpot motherload hallelujah find of the year... about 400 pounds of genuine linotype - you can still read the march 1973 headlines.

BTW - thats 1000 rounds of 45 acp on a pair of single stage presses, A rcbs #5 and an old herters.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 10:05 pm 
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Currently working on designing my new reloading bench. Going to be a couple sheets of 3/4" ply bolted to a 1x1x0.125 angle framework and lag screwed into the wall with angle supports.

About to the pull the trigger on either a Dillon 550 or 650 and then its time to start mass producing 223 ammo.

Yeehaw.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 10:14 pm 
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I know a lot of people love progressives, I have had three different one in the past, two from dillion and a hornady, I just can't get comfortable with them.
I load some pretty big lots on single stage presses - presseS plural - and can probably keep up with most folks on a progressive. Dillion makes a great product but remember, it only takes one double charge to ruin your day.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 10:21 pm 
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That is why you purchase a powder check for your progressive if you are getting a Dillon 650...

http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/conten ... wder_Check

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 3:11 am 
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For my new bench top I want to cover it in reloading/shooting stickers and then 50 millon layers of clear poly over it so I can have a see-through effect. I think that'd be neat as fuck.

I'm cutting out manufacters' names from American Rifleman to mix in with the stickers, logos off ammo boxes, even the Alliant stickers I'm peeling off my empty containers. Epic collage will be epic.

I just need help figuring out what I can use as a see through top. I'd have to float a ton of poly over everthing, which would be meh because all the items are different thicknesses, or use some type of acrylic sheet that doesnt stractch easily. Maybe some marine fiberglass type crap.

Any suggestions?

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 7:57 am 
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lexan or plexi
you could also use tempered glass - just be careful


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:04 am 
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Ten Eight wrote:
I'm cutting out manufacters' names from American Rifleman to mix in with the stickers, logos off ammo boxes, even the Alliant stickers I'm peeling off my empty containers. Epic collage will be epic.

I just need help figuring out what I can use as a see through top. I'd have to float a ton of poly over everthing, which would be meh because all the items are different thicknesses, .....

Any suggestions?


Yeah, there's a kind of clear epoxy product used on bar counters decorated with beer coasters and such that acheives the effect you're looking for. Google "bar countertop epoxy" and you'll get lots of hits.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 2:24 pm 
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My last trip to the bench was to clean off enough room to remount the MEC. Loaded 300 each of 7 1/2's, 6's, and 5's. 12ga 1 1/8 with enough Greendot to get everything out at 1200+. Waiting on components to do buck and slugs.
Would like to load 223 but having to wait for more pulled 62's.
I have a few new moulds that are waiting for cooler weather also. One that I am looking forward to trying is a .452 200gr HP.

Image

and there is a Hollow Point version of this:

Image

I need to finish up the 38 Spls so I can change out the dies back to 45acp. Everything else is caught up enough that what is left unloaded isn't worth messing with, at least until I get the lead pot going again.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 3:17 pm 
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I also like the single stage presses, I've loaded probably close to 4k 45 acp on a single stage el cheepo lee press in the first year I got it. I just do it in stages, clean all the brass, prime a thousand or so, then come back and finish them off.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 3:27 pm 
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SRO1911 wrote:
I know a lot of people love progressives, I have had three different one in the past, two from dillion and a hornady, I just can't get comfortable with them.
I load some pretty big lots on single stage presses - presseS plural - and can probably keep up with most folks on a progressive. Dillion makes a great product but remember, it only takes one double charge to ruin your day.


Double charging can be pretty much eliminated by choosing a powder that provides proper load density. That way a double will overflow the cartridge case, which is pretty easy to spot. It frequently has the added benefit of being less position sensitive. I do admit however that 2.8 to 3gr of Bullseye under a 148gr WC is hard to ignore.

BF

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 3:56 am 
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majorhavoc wrote:
Ten Eight wrote:
I'm cutting out manufacters' names from American Rifleman to mix in with the stickers, logos off ammo boxes, even the Alliant stickers I'm peeling off my empty containers. Epic collage will be epic.

I just need help figuring out what I can use as a see through top. I'd have to float a ton of poly over everthing, which would be meh because all the items are different thicknesses, .....

Any suggestions?


Yeah, there's a kind of clear epoxy product used on bar counters decorated with beer coasters and such that acheives the effect you're looking for. Google "bar countertop epoxy" and you'll get lots of hits.



Awesome. Thanks.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 4:31 am 
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For anyone who says their living quarters are too small to start reloading, here's my set up

Lee Turret press
Image

Fits inside cupboard
Image

When not in use, no one would guess it's related to firearms
Image

I have two of these cabinets. The other contains all of my casting equipment, primers, and powders. I may purchase a third eventually for better organization (these two are full). When I want to reload, I pull out the press (attached to its shelf) and clamp it to the top of the cabinet. I'm pretty happy with the compact set up in my small apartment.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 8:48 am 
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For those that mold your own:

Can you get copper jackets for pouring lead into?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 9:06 am 
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MaconCJ7 wrote:
For those that mold your own:

Can you get copper jackets for pouring lead into?


I've never seen them, would probably require a special mould, if they do exist. There are gas checks for casters though. I'm new to shooting in general, but gas checks, as I understand,are to give a uniform base for the gasses to press on, giving you more accurate loads

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 9:17 am 
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MaconCJ7 wrote:
For those that mold your own:

Can you get copper jackets for pouring lead into?

It's possible to swage jackets onto a lead core. I seem to recall a thread on here about using spent .22 LR brass as a jacket material for .223...


Also...
http://www.corbins.com/fjfb-3.htm


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 9:33 am 
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So I have a noob question and be gentle. I have a kind of uncommon round and feel it would be cheaper to just reload it then keep buy ammo. It's 6mm and my question is what's the average amount of times you can reload brass before it necks to much and the metal is to thin?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 11:06 am 
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Ike wrote:
So I have a noob question and be gentle. I have a kind of uncommon round and feel it would be cheaper to just reload it then keep buy ammo. It's 6mm and my question is what's the average amount of times you can reload brass before it necks to much and the metal is to thin?


My Lyman manual says an average of 5 to 6. I'm sure 10 isn't unheard of.

Lets get this down on the first page! I recommend all new reloaders go buy a quality manual from a reputable reloading company. I recommend the Lyman (49th edition at time of posting). I also like the Lyman pistol specific manual, it has a lot more general information and more of a theory text than just a big book of charts and numbers.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 12:15 pm 
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I have a bible, but I lent it to my dad who already has a press. Figured he would need it more then me at the moment. It was just a question I've had for awhile.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 12:53 pm 
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Ike wrote:
So I have a noob question and be gentle. I have a kind of uncommon round and feel it would be cheaper to just reload it then keep buy ammo. It's 6mm and my question is what's the average amount of times you can reload brass before it necks to much and the metal is to thin?


The way you load can make a big difference, loads at or near max work the brass more, neck sizing reduces wear on the brass and if you anneal before the cases start to split you can get even more. I have 3006 brass that I bought in 1979 that has been loaded over 10 times and is still good. Just take care of it and trim when needed, you can get a very long life from your brass.

BF

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 1:41 pm 
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MrFord wrote:
My last trip to the bench was to clean off enough room to remount the MEC. Loaded 300 each of 7 1/2's, 6's, and 5's. 12ga 1 1/8 with enough Greendot to get everything out at 1200+. Waiting on components to do buck and slugs.
Would like to load 223 but having to wait for more pulled 62's.
I have a few new moulds that are waiting for cooler weather also. One that I am looking forward to trying is a .452 200gr HP.

Image

and there is a Hollow Point version of this:

Image

I need to finish up the 38 Spls so I can change out the dies back to 45acp. Everything else is caught up enough that what is left unloaded isn't worth messing with, at least until I get the lead pot going again.


That's so hot looking it makes me want to run out and buy some.

How hard is it to gas check and lube?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 3:23 pm 
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I'm definitely operating at a different level than you guys. Call me the "Forest Gump" of handloaders.

I have an inexpensive single stage press. It and my powder dispenser are bolted to one end of a 2"x6"x4' hardwood board. It spends most of its life behind my couch but a couple/few times a month I pull it out, clamp it to my kitchen table with wooden handscrews and load up a bunch of .223 or 9mm.

I tend to plumb the low end of the loading range specified in my Lyman manual. I buy my bullets off the rack, in a plastic bag. Winchester or Remington; whichever is cheaper. I can't go to a shooting range without spending at least 50% of my time looking at the ground, scanning for spent brass.

All I ever make are plinking rounds with FMJ projectiles. I strive for consistency in my loads, but not the perfect match grade round.

My idea of advanced loading technique was to buy a digital caliper to check my overall cartridge length.

At the end of my reloading day, I'm still struck by two things:
1) There's something strangely satsifying about slowly filling up a cartidge box with one row after another of gleaming handloaded rounds.
2) I'm still tickled pink that every one of my rounds goes bang when I pull the trigger. That just never gets old for me.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 4:49 pm 
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majorhavoc wrote:
I'm definitely operating at a different level than you guys. Call me the "Forest Gump" of handloaders.

I have an inexpensive single stage press. It and my powder dispenser are bolted to one end of a 2"x6"x4' hardwood board. It spends most of its life behind my couch but a couple/few times a month I pull it out, clamp it to my kitchen table with wooden handscrews and load up a bunch of .223 or 9mm.

I tend to plumb the low end of the loading range specified in my Lyman manual. I buy my bullets off the rack, in a plastic bag. Winchester or Remington; whichever is cheaper. I can't go to a shooting range without spending at least 50% of my time looking at the ground, scanning for spent brass.

All I ever make are plinking rounds with FMJ projectiles. I strive for consistency in my loads, but not the perfect match grade round.

My idea of advanced loading technique was to buy a digital caliper to check my overall cartridge length.

At the end of my reloading day, I'm still struck by two things:
1) There's something strangely satsifying about slowly filling up a cartidge box with one row after another of gleaming handloaded rounds.
2) I'm still tickled pink that every one of my rounds goes bang when I pull the trigger. That just never gets old for me.



Here, here! I'll drink to that brother!

I'm still tempted to buy a set of Lee Hand Loaders for my more common calibers, and "set up" a rubber maid tote up at the BOL:
3000 primers
3000 bullets
1 or 2 pounds of powder

Of course if I bought one Lee Hand Loader for the BOL, I should buy TWO so I have one to practice with and be proficient with at home ...

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 7:40 pm 
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Most every gun will have two separate "sweet spots" where it will stick them all in the same hole - a low and a high. ideally we would find the low and shoot just that, but sometimes that low is too low for the application.
When it comes to brass life - this can make a big difference, gentle loads do not put as much strain on cases as barn burnin screamers.

The number one factor in determining case life is before you even get to the powder. If you can keep specific cases with the same gun you DO NOT have to full length resize every time. By sizing only the neck, and that only enough to properly grip the bullet you will end up with cases that perfectly fit your chamber.
My benchrest guns are cut with chambers that have very specific necks, I can often get 40+ firings on each case before any problems develop and usually the first problem to arise is loose primer pockets.
Factory chambers are cut to be within certain tolerances, in some cases two guns can be at very different ends of that spectrum and still be 'good' chambers. If you have multiple guns of the same caliber then you either need to carefully mark cases for each gun or full length size every time which will work the shoulder area of the case and lead to pre-mature failure.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 10:16 pm 
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MrFord wrote:
SRO1911 wrote:
I know a lot of people love progressives, I have had three different one in the past, two from dillion and a hornady, I just can't get comfortable with them.
I load some pretty big lots on single stage presses - presseS plural - and can probably keep up with most folks on a progressive. Dillion makes a great product but remember, it only takes one double charge to ruin your day.


Double charging can be pretty much eliminated by choosing a powder that provides proper load density. That way a double will overflow the cartridge case, which is pretty easy to spot. It frequently has the added benefit of being less position sensitive. I do admit however that 2.8 to 3gr of Bullseye under a 148gr WC is hard to ignore.

BF


I feel that I really need to add to this, at least as far as Dillon systems go. I don't want to come across as arrogant or "Mr. Bug-up-his-ass", but if you operate the press, don't be timid and stop-start, etc...double charging a case is impossible. I know, I know nothing's "impossible" but it's out of the realm of possibility. You literally have to pull the handle twice without going through a full stroke to throw a double charge.

On the other hand, loading squibs is a distinct possibility with Dillon's earlier powder measures. The ones before they added the op lever. But the current production (starting around 1997-8?) all work pretty damned reliably. Running out of powder and not noticing it?....I have to plead guilty to that one a time of two. That's why I have a bullet puller with a broken handle.


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