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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 10:40 pm 
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Many people like to have their rifles be all black. I know, I was once one of them. This included the engraving lines on all my rifles. I since have changed my mind. I like a little bit of color, and welcome it IF it is tastefully done. Simple colors, striking colors, BOLD colors. These are all great to choose from. What if you had SAFE and SEMI/FIRE/ARRGGGHHH filled in red? Or yellow? Even purple! These are all great ideas and I am going to show you a simple, yet effective way to make a statement next time you walk up to the firing line.

Tools:
Heat gun (I used a hair dryer)
Shop towel (I used an old shirt I use for cleaning my guns)
Crayons (Crayola FTW)
1 AR-15 lower
5 minutes of your time

1. Get your hair dryer and your lower and heat that bitch up until you can't hold it in your hard comfortably. This will allow the wax of the crayons to melt easily and fill in the grooves in your lower very easily.
Image

2. When you can't touch it, apply the crayon while still holding the heat gun on the high setting. The wax will flow freely and you can apply it to all the surfaces. Don't worry about making it look pretty at this stage, it will look like a giant blob of wax on your lower.
Image

3. WIPE!!! Be careful to keep the lower hot so the wax still flows freely on the surface but you can take the towel and wipe off the surface. Make sure not to get the wax in the grooves out, thats what you want. Clear defined lines on the lower, and no wax on the outside of the lines.
Image

4. Enjoy a beer/coke/lemonade while looking at your now beautiful lower. Isn't it pretty? Enjoy your next range session with your non-standard AR-15!

Another lower that I finished using the above method. It took longer to write this simple how-to than to do the actual process. Enjoy!
Image

Just one more thing. Single colors are a lot easier to do than multiple colors. If you want to use multiple colors, use testors paint and a fine brush and then wipe away the excess. This would be easier for a multi-color image.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 10:46 pm 
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sweet.... I'll try it on my crappy stripped CMMG lower..... will not touch my staggie or RRA til I get it down to a tee.

thanks for the info


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 11:15 pm 
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Funny this comes up, I just did mine yesterday using acrylic hobby paint.

Image

I like your technique. The crayon method is probably more durable, but my method is really easy.

Image

I used this paint because it came in the nice little squeeze bottle so I could squirt just the right amount of paint directly onto the engraved areas. I encouraged it into the nooks and crannies with a toothpick. Then I wiped off the excess with a paper towel. Yes, there were ugly smears of acrylic paint left all over the lower. No, I did not panic. I let the paint dry for a few minutes and then cleaned up around the engraving with more paper towel lightly dampened (not soaked) with Windex until the receiver land area was swabbed . . . and wiped. Everything was clean. Beautiful. So that it slides perfectly. So that your action is beautiful. Smooth, Charlene . . . . 8)

Any other ammonia based window spray will do. I use Windex to clean out my brushes and airbrush after using acrylic, the ammonia dissolves the acrylic quite nicely. There might be a problem down the road since I use CLP, which contains ammonia, but it isn't like it'd take more than 15 minutes to completely do over.

Portside view:

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 11:21 pm 
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arfcom shenanigans

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 11:33 pm 
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To much paint for me.

But the fire control group is awesome, I'd just paint that portion. I am super jealous of your happy switch Chef!

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Last edited by Zoltan on Wed Aug 05, 2009 2:20 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 2:19 am 
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MacabeeSicarius wrote:
arfcom shenanigans


ARFcom did this before me?????? fuck me running, is there anything they haven't done?

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12_Gauge_Chimp wrote:
I say when Wee Drop visits the US, we make her ride a goat. You know, like those little monkey cowboys they have at some rodeos. :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 2:30 am 
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Quote:
Crayons

Wait, are we talking about rifles or dice?

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 3:06 am 
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I just thought up a star trek themed rifle... For the selector switch, it could be "normal" for safe, "yellow alert" for semi "red alert" for full auto. God I want that rifle. With a fully functioning giggle switch. I can fill in those recesses at a machine shop and get it refinished. No problem. I just need to move to a more free state like arizona.

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12_Gauge_Chimp wrote:
I say when Wee Drop visits the US, we make her ride a goat. You know, like those little monkey cowboys they have at some rodeos. :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 4:34 am 
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http://www.jgsales.com/product_info.php ... ts_id/3502

There is your giggle switch rifle. Now you just got to get the wording redone. Oh and you'll never be able to show it to any true AR guy. Personal, as an AK guy, I think it would be a neat thing to do.
I'd like one that said Safe, Semi, Frak'em all.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 7:57 am 
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A friend's method.

White molyresin and the smallest syringes I could get my hands on 28g, I think.

I thoughoughly cleaned all the places to be lettered with acetone, sucked some molyresin into a syringe and started applying it to the parts.
I had my oven warm, so I'd put on some moly and let it dry in the oven, then put on some more.
I did this until the letters were mostly full of white. Then I wiped off the excess with blue shop towels lightly wet with acetone.
This part is tricky buisiness especially on the parts with small and thinnly stamped letters because it's easy to wipe out all the color.

Once you finally have everything looking good, bake it and be happy

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 10:26 am 
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I've used syringes, wiping on with paper towels or newspaper or cotton swabs, tiny paintbrushes, and toothpicks. I tried crayon, hobby paint, white-out, nail polish, and all manner of other retarded ideas before I broke down and got a Brownells Lacquer Stik.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7778/Product/LACQUER_STIK_reg_

It's kind of like the crayon idea, but you just peel off the layer of skin that's formed on the outside of your stick, smear on some of the still-wet material, rub it into your markings, and either wipe it off right away or let it dry and wipe off the excess. It fills crevices really well and seems more durable than some methods. I'd still prefer model paint if I had a steady enough hand to keep from screwing it up, but this one won my heart for ease of use.

There's a small chance of residue 'ghosting' around the area where you wipe off your finish if it's textured, but on a smooth receiver there's no side effects, and if you screw up it comes right off with solvent and elbow grease.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 10:32 am 
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nimdabew wrote:
MacabeeSicarius wrote:
arfcom shenanigans


ARFcom did this before me?????? fuck me running, is there anything they haven't done?


Pretty common thing for mil-surp collectors too. I like it on the AR's. Not so much on Garand's

-Hans

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 12:28 pm 
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HHaase wrote:
nimdabew wrote:
MacabeeSicarius wrote:
arfcom shenanigans


ARFcom did this before me?????? fuck me running, is there anything they haven't done?


Pretty common thing for mil-surp collectors too. I like it on the AR's. Not so much on Garand's

-Hans


yup, crayons to highlight stampings and markings is pretty standard in milsurp circles

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 12:30 pm 
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nimdabew wrote:
I just thought up a star trek themed rifle... For the selector switch, it could be "normal" for safe, "yellow alert" for semi "red alert" for full auto.


Um, "Stun" to "Kill"?

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 1:37 pm 
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Brendan Sullivan wrote:
I've used syringes, wiping on with paper towels or newspaper or cotton swabs, tiny paintbrushes, and toothpicks. I tried crayon, hobby paint, white-out, nail polish, and all manner of other retarded ideas before I broke down and got a Brownells Lacquer Stik.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7778/Product/LACQUER_STIK_reg_

It's kind of like the crayon idea, but you just peel off the layer of skin that's formed on the outside of your stick, smear on some of the still-wet material, rub it into your markings, and either wipe it off right away or let it dry and wipe off the excess. It fills crevices really well and seems more durable than some methods. I'd still prefer model paint if I had a steady enough hand to keep from screwing it up, but this one won my heart for ease of use.

There's a small chance of residue 'ghosting' around the area where you wipe off your finish if it's textured, but on a smooth receiver there's no side effects, and if you screw up it comes right off with solvent and elbow grease.



I'm tempted to buy this but I am afraid I am going to fuck it up. From what I read from the link you posted, this stuff is permanent... and since you said it may stain a little bit then that just makes me more paranoid. I've no idea what kind of finishes my lowers have. I have a Stag Arms, RRA and a CMMG. Any Idea?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 1:41 pm 
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Kabong30 wrote:
nimdabew wrote:
I just thought up a star trek themed rifle... For the selector switch, it could be "normal" for safe, "yellow alert" for semi "red alert" for full auto.


Um, "Stun" to "Kill"?


Yes. That would rule.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 1:43 pm 
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By the way nimdabew, have you fired your rifle since then? does it melt off? I know the mag well doesnt really get that hot but have you noticed any melting? It is 92 degrees here In Salt Lake City, Utah, will if melt???????????????


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 8:01 pm 
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pmpmzd6 wrote:
By the way nimdabew, have you fired your rifle since then? does it melt off? I know the mag well doesnt really get that hot but have you noticed any melting? It is 92 degrees here In Salt Lake City, Utah, will if melt???????????????

I'd think, at that temp, it would melt. When we had temps in the 90's here, Wolf ammo(polymer coating) cause my AR to lock up 3/4 ways through the first mag. Same with my nephews AR15 rifle.
YMMV

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 9:12 pm 
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pmpmzd6 wrote:
By the way nimdabew, have you fired your rifle since then? does it melt off? I know the mag well doesnt really get that hot but have you noticed any melting? It is 92 degrees here In Salt Lake City, Utah, will if melt???????????????


I live in seattle. I have so such worries. BUT if you are really worried about that, use testors paint. It stays on almost everything I have tried.

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12_Gauge_Chimp wrote:
I say when Wee Drop visits the US, we make her ride a goat. You know, like those little monkey cowboys they have at some rodeos. :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2009 10:23 pm 
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nimdabew wrote:

I live in seattle. I have so such worries. BUT if you are really worried about that, use testors paint. It stays on almost everything I have tried.


stop encouraging them, nimda!!!!


:mrgreen: :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 12:05 am 
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well I went for it. I tried doing it on the stripped CMMG lower. the "SAFE" fill in turned out great but for some reason the "FIRE" sucks balls.... this is the best I could do:

Image

HOWEVER, after getting the technique down (hair dryer really blows the wax all over the lower) I tried doing it on my full Stag Arms lower and I CANNOT get it to stick! :evil: it fills in great but when I try removing the excess by scraping over the letters with something flat, it just takes all the wax out of the letters. It is pissing me off!!!!!!!!! I think it is because they have different finishes... I really don't know.... I've always considered Stag Arms to be superior in quality than most AR makers out there so maybe they have a better finish... anyway.... I think I might actually try paint next time. Maybe even with a syringe


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 12:14 am 
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I tried a new techique... Use your finger while the wax is still hot, but not hot enough to burn you. It will create enough of a flat surface where the grooves don't get touched, but absorbant enough to where the wax won't stay on the surface. You might also try degreasing your lower if it is particularly dirty or oily.

Also, if you want until the wax is hard to scrape, it will lift the fill out along with the rest of the wax. I wipe when the wax is about the texture of bubble gum that you have been chewing for about 30 seconds.

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12_Gauge_Chimp wrote:
I say when Wee Drop visits the US, we make her ride a goat. You know, like those little monkey cowboys they have at some rodeos. :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 10:52 am 
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nimdabew wrote:
I wipe when the wax is about the texture of bubble gum that you have been chewing for about 30 seconds.


Whoa, easy with the industry jargon there, bad boy. Some of us aren't as tech-savvy as you.

To derail even more, though, if there's any interest in comparing the crayon to the Lacquer Stik I linked above, I could take some heat and/or solvent to my markings and see how they fare, then refill using both methods side by side.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 8:20 pm 
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nimdabew wrote:
I tried a new techique... Use your finger while the wax is still hot, but not hot enough to burn you. It will create enough of a flat surface where the grooves don't get touched, but absorbant enough to where the wax won't stay on the surface. You might also try degreasing your lower if it is particularly dirty or oily.

Also, if you want until the wax is hard to scrape, it will lift the fill out along with the rest of the wax. I wipe when the wax is about the texture of bubble gum that you have been chewing for about 30 seconds.


it worked!!!!!

it's just a bit hard to clean since I didnt strip my lowers.... but oh well.... turned out pretty good but I am still a bit edgy on the temperature thing.... I still think it is going to melt


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