Maintenance questions!

[kbilly84]

So, I've got a 2000 Chevy Blazer, and I'm looking to do some maintenance on it. I'd prefer to do most of it myself; to save money and gain some skills in the process. Problem is, as it stands now, I'm not terribly knowledgeable about vehicles. I am however mechanically inclined from the standpoint that I can figure things out as I go. i.e. This part does this, which makes this happen. And so on. So, I'm looking to the gearheads here on ZS for some insight as I do some work on my truck.

First up: Fuel Filter. Seems I can get one for 10-15 bucks. Beats the hell out of the $60 quote I got from a local shop. How is install on these things? Is it something that I could do?

ETA: a few minutes on Google, and it seems almost easier than changing oil.....??

[MaconCJ7]

Go to your parts house and pick up a Haynes manual for your car. It will tell you everything you need to know.

[jamoni]

^^^^^^^
This. When you buy a used vehicle, this should be the first thing you do.
Google is your friend, also youtube.
And there are often free manuals in PDF format if you can find them.

[kbilly84]

Ahhh the Haynes Manual. I've never really looked at one.
I always figured they just contained schematic diagrams, which may or may not be helpful. Do they also contain instructions?

[MaconCJ7]

They contain everything you need.

If it's something needing directions, it has directions. If it's something needing a wiring diagram, it has a diagram. Pictures, drawings, text, everything you need.

[Tater Raider]

Step-by-step how-to process on everything from changing a bulb to rebuilding the engine.

[majorhavoc]

In case it's not absolutely crystal clear; defintely buy the manual for your vehicle. It pays for itself the first job you do.

A second item to consider buying is a good quality socket wrench set with 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" wrenches and an assortment of metic and SAE sockets. Doesn't have to be a $1000 Snap On set, but something a step above Harbor Freight crap. Something like Craftsman or Kobalt or Husky.

[Tater Raider]

I got a 120 piece (or so) briefcase set to get me going. I've bought very few tools since.

Yet.

Wrenching gets addictive btw.

[dukman]

I have heard that the Hayne's books don't always have a good wiring diagram, so some of the hardcore backyard mechanics will only buy the Chilton's books instead. (they are now both owned by the same company, and I have heard they have stopped production of the book form and all newer releases will be of the computer type)

Another tool you should buy NOW is a TORX (spelling?) head socket set. I think they are under $20 for a Stanley set at Wally World.

[kbilly84]

I'll be stopping on the way home from work to look for a book. I've got a small set of wrenches, and of sockets. Not sure off the top of my head what sizes, but I know they're inches, not mm.

After looking around online for a while, replacing my fuel filter seems stupid easy. It's mostly just making sure I don't get gasoline in my eyes...
Anyone out there replaced theirs, able to confirm?

[dukman]

I'll be stopping on the way home from work to look for a book. I've got a small set of wrenches, and of sockets. Not sure off the top of my head what sizes, but I know they're inches, not mm.

I would look at getting a new set of tools. Wal-Mart has Stanleys on sale every now and then for about $50 a set. Pretty much any new car today will use Metric. There are some SAE equivalents (Like 12mm is the same as 1/2), but some don't have any equals.

[eugene]

for the fuel filter, it will have a special fitting on each end, go to sears and in the automotive tools they will have a tool made by Lysle, red and white package. It will be 5-6 round white C shaped plastic circles. You pick the one that fits and slide it over the fuel line and onto the fitting and then turn it to release it. It will be a GM fuel/AC/transmission cooler fitting tool.

I have one of http://www.amazon.com/Bucket-Boss-Brand ... 699&sr=8-1
and in the right side I keep that tool in one of the three pockets. I have 1/4" drive sockets in another and some 3/8" in another then the ratchets, screwdrivers, etc in the rest of the pouches. I have their wrench roll too and have from 7mm to 24mm in it.
Your 2000 model will be all metric, they completed the change over on the s10is in the late 80's.
Both of those roll up and stuff under the seats and a bag with jumper cables and a school type zipper binder with the manuals and other papers under the other seat as well as a fak.
Go to sears the day after Christmas or fathers day and pick up the tool sets that are labeled for fathers day or Christmas for cheap.

[majorhavoc]

Go to sears the day after Christmas or fathers day and pick up the tool sets that are labeled for fathers day or Christmas for cheap.

Great advice. If you act on this one suggestion, the wisdom of this advice will become increasingly apparent the longer you live.

[Tater Raider]

Go to sears the day after Christmas or fathers day and pick up the tool sets that are labeled for fathers day or Christmas for cheap.

Great advice. If you act on this one suggestion, the wisdom of this advice will become increasingly apparent the longer you live.

Yup yup yup.

also I agree with the Torx. Dusty demands them all the time and a socket set to go with the 120 pc. set wench/socket set works for 90%_ of my needs.


YMMV, Offer void in Rhode Island (because they live in a tiny place and this is how they make you notice them).

[eugene]

Another thing i've done is replace torx bolts when possible. For example my caliper bolts were torx so i searched auto parts web sites for replacements which had a hex head. This way i don't have to worry about loosing or breaking the single torx bit, hex stuff i have so kets and wrenches so there is some redundancy should i break one.
start with preventative, replace fan belt, spark plugs and wires and keep thr old as spares.

[silentpoet]

Best manual is the factory one if you can get one for your car. Haynes misses some stuff or says the job should be done by a shop/professional. eBay is a good place to look for factory manuals. I got my 1968 caddy shop manual there. Lots of year specific stuff the generic multi year manuals may not get exactly right.

Also I like pawn shops for cheap name brand tools. Great way to get individual sockets. If all possible get 6 point sockets, your knuckles will thank you. Except for the very lightest duty avoid using 12 point sockets.

[taz-hein]

fan belt, spark plugs and wires and keep thr old as spares.

this is brilliant, usually I just buy two when I buy hoses etc.


I don't really like working on my car, I'm lazy. but when I see yelp autoshop reviews like "they only charged me $1200 for my brakes"
I can't bring myself to take it to the shop.

I'm lazy, but I'm more cheap.

[hdandb]

As far as manuals go Haynes/Hilton are fine but nothing beats a factory service manual. Yes they are not the cheapest but are the best, meanwhile most weekend mechanics will be fine with the $25 Haynes.

Fuel filter:
1) remove fuse that is for the fuel pump
2) turn key as if you were going to start but not all the way to the start position. First click is "acc" second is "run" and third is "start" then springs back to run. I hope this makes sense. Basically you want to turn on the pump but not the car. ***you will not hear the pump hum, but that's OK***
3) pressure is now relieved from something which stops gas from spraying everywhere
4) use your GM disconnect tool that you just bought mentioned from earlier post. There will be gas leaking out so be ready but it will not be under pressure. You can either have everything ready and do the swap quickly or have a rag and little can to catch the drips, or both, quickly with a rag and can
5) make sure of flow on your new filter with the arrow. Obviously arrow points from tank to engine, remember you'll be laying on your back
6) if everything looks good reinstall fuse
7) turn key back to original position ( not starting vehicle) you will hear fuel pump humming. When it is done humming it is done priming itself. Make take a little longer than normal but not much, maybe a few seconds longer than normal if that.
8) after it has primed turn key to off position and visualy look at filter for leaks. Chances are there are none because those connectors are hard to get wrong and you built pressure in the system
9) pat yourself on the back you just saved about $50 for doing some DIY

[KJ4VOV]

Carrying spares is just as important as doing proper maintenance in my opinion. At the minimum I like to carry a full set of belts and hoses, fluids in quantities sufficient to replace any lost when something goes, fuses, extra bulbs, several tubes of plumbers epoxy, a large can of non-flammable fix-a-flat type product (sometimes it's safer to use that than to put on the spare), one of each filter, wire, several dozen zip ties, WD-40 and a few rolls of duct tape. If it breaks and I can't fix it with that then I'm probably going to need to have it in a shop to work on it anyway.

[PsycoBob]

Wait for Father's Day sales at Sears, then go pick up the biggest set you can afford. Decent prices & you can return most anything that breaks.

A small hydraulic jack, a pair of jackstands & the longest breaker bar you can find. The vehicle's 'stock' jack is almost always a piece of crap & tire shop guys seem to like using impact-wrenches on lugnuts.

Expect missing bits in the manuals- Haynes especially. "To replace instrument panel lights, remove instrument panel screws & lift the front half of the panel out." Uh, no screws visible in my car. No mention of removing the fake-wood trim by pulling it towards you to reveal the first set of screws that hide the actual instrument panel screws. No comment about "dismembering dash panels covered in the 'body & interior' chapter." (it wasn't) Crownvic.net helped with that bit for my car- find an enthusiast community or yahoo group about your car, if you can.

[eugene]

I've learned my lesson with shops, they generally don't know any more than I do but charge a lot of $ to make an educated guess as to whats wrong.
I had a 2000 S10 that I bought used, shortly after, while still under the rip off warranty I shouldn't have let them talk me in to, the service engine soon light came on and I didn't have 1st or OD. I took it to the dealer and they read the codes and it said "computer lost communication with solenoid A" so they replaced the computer. I picked it up and drove home and had the exact same problem so I had to again find a ride to work and change my schedule to drop it off. So they finally replaced solenoid A in the transmission, charged me the $100 extended warranty deductible and another $100+ in shop supplies for the transmission fluid, gasket, shop rags, etc. I bought a $13 transmission repair manual and looked up the cost of solenoid A and it was about $20. Both Solenoid A and B are right on the bottom of the valve body, A does 1 and OD and B does 2 and 3. I could have fixed it for less than $50.
Had the same thing happen years before when we made the mistake of buying a minivan. Would stall out driving down the road. Made 4 trips to the dealer and paid $500+ and it still had the same problem. Ended up finding the problem was bad design, the crank sensor plug wasn't sealed so it would get water in it. So every oil change I would squire some dielectric grease in it.

[kbilly84]

Good call on the Haynes Manual. Picked one up a few weeks ago, been browsing through it since. Very nice. I'm getting excited about doing my own maintenance, finally. About damn time I figure out how to work on my vehicle.

For a fuel filter, looks like the only thing I need to worry about is de-pressurizing the fuel system. Manual doesn't seem overly clear on how to do this, beyond removing the gas cap. Sound about right, or am I missing something?

After that, I think the next thing I need to do is my rear brakes. I paid 270 last summer to get my fronts done FUCK THAT. Anything special I need to pay attention to when doing this (beyond what the manual says)?

Thanks again for the help and advice everyone!

[kbilly84]

Carrying spares is just as important as doing proper maintenance in my opinion. At the minimum I like to carry a full set of belts and hoses, fluids in quantities sufficient to replace any lost when something goes, fuses, extra bulbs, several tubes of plumbers epoxy, a large can of non-flammable fix-a-flat type product (sometimes it's safer to use that than to put on the spare), one of each filter, wire, several dozen zip ties, WD-40 and a few rolls of duct tape. If it breaks and I can't fix it with that then I'm probably going to need to have it in a shop to work on it anyway.

How'd I miss this before??

I agree completely with all of that. For me though (as of right now), it's kinda pointless. Since I have little-to-no experience fixing/replacing/etc most of those things, I'd be more likely to eff something up than fix it. I do keep a jack, spare tire (duh), fuses, and some fluids. My goal with all of this is to get working on my truck, and know how to fix it. I also want to get some general knowledge, so I can fix other vehicles if necessary. Eventually I'll have a Pelican or similar case loaded with maintenance-type stuff. But that's a ways down the road.

[nyarlotep]

Have a supply of shop rags or paper towels ready to sop up the gas that will leak out from the filter and fuel lines when you take out the old one. Some friends and I replaced my 2000 Jimmy's fuel filter when also replacing its fuel pump last fall and had a bit of a mess to clean up. It's not difficult, just takes a little time to do.