The Cinder Block Loses a Wheel VIDEO ON P. 15

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Re: Crypto's Project BOV: "The Brick" (64 Jeep Gladiator)

Postby Czechnology » Wed Dec 14, 2011 11:26 am

jamoni wrote:Heh. I backed sort of over a festiva in my old Cherokee. Was backing out of a parking spot, cutting it hard to the left, and felt the whole front end go up then down. Front right tire climbed right up their front right quarter panel, onto the hood, then rolled off the front bumper. My bodywork never touched. :)
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When I was 17 I backed my trooper up onto a rental Catera doing the same thing, except it was my left rear and their front right. The guy came running out of the McDonalds he was in shouting "What the fuck!?" over and over in this high pitched voice. I had done a walkaround of both vehicles before he came out and had seen the rental company sticker on the back.

"That a rental?"

"What the fu.... yeah."

"You pay for insurance?"

"...yeah."

"Good thing for both of us. Here's $20, my truck is fine. Have a nice day."
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Re: Crypto's Project BOV: "The Brick" (64 Jeep Gladiator)

Postby jamoni » Wed Dec 14, 2011 11:28 am

crypto wrote:Once I can get 4 dudes out there at once to help me lift the bed off the frame, things will start to happen faster.

Let me know.
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Re: Crypto's Project BOV: "The Brick" (64 Jeep Gladiator)

Postby crypto » Thu Dec 29, 2011 12:51 am

UPDATE!

Ive got the week off from work, so its time to get cranking on this thing.

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We took the bed off, I was pleasantly surprised to see the frame in better shape than I thought it would be.


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I briefly considered turning it into a ratrod.


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We knocked down the rust-free primer on most of the body, to prep for new primer.



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I dug out my blue speedsuit before spending 6 hours running an open-air sandblaster. Lots of scale rust on the bottom of the bed floor, but not many perforations. I think we'll need a few welded-in patches, but we can POR-15 the rest.



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The bed is almost entirely down to the white, and all pits and rust exposed for treatment.



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We got the tailgate into its first coat of primer tonight (no pics of post-primer).


More pics to follow, back to work tomorrow!


ETA: sandblasters suck. I have sand in every orifice.

Yes. Every. :(
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Re: "The Brick" (64 Jeep Gladiator) Update 12/28

Postby DarkandShiny » Thu Dec 29, 2011 12:16 pm

Looks great! Nice work and thanks for keeping us posted.
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Re: "The Brick" (64 Jeep Gladiator) Update 12/28

Postby The Jinxmedic » Thu Dec 29, 2011 12:29 pm

These are the best trucks ever.
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"The Cinder Block" (64 Jeep Gladiator) Update 12/29

Postby crypto » Thu Dec 29, 2011 6:16 pm

UPDATE!

We got the cab exterior primed today.



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Taped.


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Braxtron laying down the epoxy primer.



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Hell yes.

So, this Gladiator is now officially The Cinder Block.

Now, I need a nap. I think I'm still high from solvent fumes.
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Re: "The Cinder Block" (64 Jeep Gladiator) Update 12/29

Postby whisk.e.rebellion » Thu Dec 29, 2011 8:28 pm

Crypto, get that shit done by Zcon. I want a ride in that thing this year. No excuses :P
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Re: "The Cinder Block" (64 Jeep Gladiator) Update 12/29

Postby Paladin1 » Thu Dec 29, 2011 8:42 pm

Excellent progress! Thanks for the update shots.

Can't wait to see this finished.
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Re: "The Cinder Block" (64 Jeep Gladiator) Update 12/29

Postby Blasphemous » Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:09 pm

It's looking great!
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Re: "The Cinder Block" (64 Jeep Gladiator) Update 12/29

Postby drewder » Fri Dec 30, 2011 3:35 am

crypto wrote:UPDATE!



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Braxtron laying down the epoxy primer.





New nick-name for Braxton?

It was awesome the see the "BLOCK" for the first time. I am sure we all blew massive amounts of shit out of our noses after that night. Can't wait to see that thing up and running.
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Re: "The Cinder Block" (64 Jeep Gladiator) Update 12/29

Postby crypto » Sun Jan 08, 2012 6:13 pm

More progress this weekend:

My POR-15 showed up, so it was time to get to work.


I ordered 2 quarts of POR-15, and a gallon of the etching prep spray. The prep spray is a concentrated zinc phosphate solution: That is to say, room-temperature parkerizing solution with acid.

I bought an $8 pressurized bug sprayer to deliver it because fuck a bunch of trigger spray bottle. The sprayer worked great, we let it sit for a half hour and then hosed it off. We painted with a brush on Saturday until we ran out of daylight, cleaned up, and left the paintbrushes for dead, since theres no getting the POR-15 out of them.

The POR-15 goes on very well with a brush, we were both amazed at how well it applied, how well it levelled even when painted on a vertical surface, but most importantly, just how far it goes. We got about a quarter of one side of the bed underside painted on Saturday, and barely put a dent in the paint.

Sunday morning I stopped by Harbor Freight and picked up a small paint gun with a 4oz cup on it for $12, figuring that if it turns into a block of epoxy after applying the POR-15 I'll only be out twelve bucks. The gun was shockingly nice, with a good action. If it doesnt survive being used for POR and then cleaned, I'll definitely buy another one, its a great little gun.

It only gets thinned 5% per the instructions, we thinned with lacquer thinner. As soon as we started running the spray gun, we realized that this paint was fucking magical. POR-15 sprays even better than it lays down with a brush. When I started spraying, I cranked the pressure all the way up and turned the paint volume all the way down, and I was immediately getting a very even and opaque coating. Its a one-and-done coating, so you dont build it up like primer. You just throw one thin coat on and its set. I got bottom of the bed, the insides of the fenders, and the entire interior of the bed sprayed up with one quart, with a cup of paint left to spare. We eventually got annoyed with it laying down so well, we ran out of bed to spray it with. I was just laying it on and the cup refused to run out, like the miracle of the loaves and fishes. When it finally cashed out, I was cheering and thoroughly high on fumes.


One important note about POR-15: It cures with humidity and heat. The reason this is vitally important to you is that it means you have about a half hour to get it off your skin before you're wearing it for a week. I learned this to my chagrin on saturday, as I neglected to clean it up properly and ended up with black tattoos on both hands. Fortunately I started Sunday morning off at the artsy coffee house and got a gushing and appreciative "Ooh, it looks like youve been painting" from the barista.


Anyway, enough blabbing, heres my bed covered in POR-15.

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Ready for primer.
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Re: "The Cinder Block" (64 Jeep Gladiator) Update 12/29

Postby Shaper » Sun Jan 08, 2012 9:57 pm

It lookin' good man! Bet you are excited about the progress. Can't wait for the finale! :mrgreen:
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Re: "The Cinder Block" (64 Jeep Gladiator) Update 12/29

Postby crypto » Sun Jan 08, 2012 10:35 pm

Looking at this thread again really reminded me of the difference between

THIS
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THIS
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AND THIS
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I'm still going to need to put some patches in the bed, but knowing that I have removed and stopped every bit of rust on it really makes me feel good.
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Re: "The Cinder Block" (64 Jeep Gladiator) Update 12/29

Postby crypto » Mon Jan 09, 2012 9:37 pm

Update: I thought I had an inkling of the source of the transmission leak, and I believe I've found it, as well as a major source of non-shifting headache in the truck.

I had thought I had a leak coming out of the front seal of the transmission, since the whole thing would slick down in ATF as soon as I started it or cleaned it off. I figured that the wind was blowing it back, and the front seal was the likely (if troublesome) source of the leak.

Well, a few weeks of sitting indoors in braxtons shop showed me something else. Without the window to push the fluid around, it looked like the leaking was localized around the vacuum modulator. Tonight I had to make a quick run over to the shop to drop off Braxton's new tent, and I stopped by the auto parts store and picked up a new modulator and o-ring.

I removed the retainer plate from the old modulator already on the transmission and was greeted by an immediate stream of fluid weeping from the side of the transmission. Hrm, thats not supposed to happen.

Long story short, the previous owner replaced or removed the modulator without re-installing the o-ring. Braxton and I put the new one in with the o-ring, (it fit much tighter) and appears to have solved that leak.

Upon thinking about it, having a vacuum leak around that thing would likely be the reason why sometimes it refuses to drop into gear even with a full pan of ATF. We shall see when its back together. At any rate, it looks like its no longer leaking.

Huzzah for $12 fixes. You dont often get those on a 50 year old truck.
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Re: "The Cinder Block" (64 Jeep Gladiator) Update 12/29

Postby Gun_Nut_2k1 » Tue Jan 10, 2012 2:50 am

crypto wrote: You dont often get those on a 50 year old truck.

Sure you do. On most 50 year old trucks $12 of gas to burn the thing to the ground is about right. Now on yours... man I'm jealous! Oh and please kill your gif sig. It is killin me! It just keeps going and going! :mrgreen:
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Re: "The Cinder Block" (64 Jeep Gladiator) Update 12/29

Postby URBAN ASSAULT » Tue Jan 10, 2012 9:09 am

Gun_Nut_2k1 wrote:
crypto wrote: You dont often get those on a 50 year old truck.

Sure you do. On most 50 year old trucks $12 of gas to burn the thing to the ground is about right. Now on yours... man I'm jealous! Oh and please kill your gif sig. It is killin me! It just keeps going and going! :mrgreen:


Hello, how else is he supposed to get to Westworld and face off against Yul?

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Re: "The Cinder Block" (64 Jeep Gladiator) Update 12/29

Postby EMEUTIER » Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:54 am

Being in Australia, these trucks are fairly hard to come by and I actually never knew they existed till about 2 years ago when I was living in another town (Tamworth).

The first I saw of these trucks was a flat olive green Gladiator with what looked to me like a huge 2ft lift and about a 4 inch chopped roof!
I gotta say it just looked pure awesome! If I had the money at the time I would have bought if off the guy right then!
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Re: "The Cinder Block" (64 Jeep Gladiator) Update 1/10

Postby crypto » Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:27 pm

UPDATE: Primer on the bed.

Once again, I'm shocked at how straight the body is.

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Almost ready for real paint.

I also took the opportunity to hose down the entire chassis with purple power in preparation for pressure washing this week.


So, dark grey satin, or foliage green satin, or something in between?
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Re: "The Cinder Block" (64 Jeep Gladiator) Update 1/10

Postby Doctorr Fabulous » Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:28 pm

Foliage. Or desert pink.

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Re: "The Cinder Block" (64 Jeep Gladiator) Update 1/10

Postby JTNieman » Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:29 pm

I'd say something in between, but it's hard to say without seeing it. I'm leaning more toward Foliage, however. I think accent colors could make it pop better, whether you paint bezels, wheels, etc black or dark, dark grey, or something like that. /shrug
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Re: "The Cinder Block" (64 Jeep Gladiator) Update 1/10

Postby crypto » Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:47 pm

Everything that was chrome will be black duracoat, so yeah.

My only concern about the foliage is that it will look too much like OD, like its a wannabe rattlecan k-blazer
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Re: "The Cinder Block" (64 Jeep Gladiator) Update 1/10

Postby jamoni » Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:53 pm

I'd go with a medium grey. Several shades darker than that primer. It'll make it look less like a survival truck but still blend pretty well. Keep a couple rattle cans of green and black in the back, instant camo if you need it. :)
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Re: "The Cinder Block" (64 Jeep Gladiator) Update 1/10

Postby Czechnology » Wed Jan 11, 2012 1:15 am

Ordinance Tan (RAL 7028), or Panzer Grey (RAL 7021).
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Re: "The Cinder Block" (64 Jeep Gladiator) Update 1/10

Postby Tater Raider » Wed Jan 11, 2012 4:37 am

I gotta say I'm really happy with the Sahara Tan of my Jeep. It surprised me how much I like that color and how clean it looks when absolutely filthy.

Here's a link to a '65 sales brochure: Clicky. I'd lean strongly towards one of those if I was you and trying to keep it close to stock, but that's me.
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