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williaty wrote:Well, I still think you have a headgasket leak because you've got the perfect list of symptoms for it. However, internet diagnoses are always a big shaky since I can't hear, smell, see, or feel the car. At this point, your only real choice is to let them do the fix they want to do and then see if it actually cures the problem. I'm betting it won't, but in all things automotive, the only universally correct answer is "It depends...".
Yeah, the 08+ cars are really disappointing compared to the GD-chassis era cars. However, the GD-chassis era cars are very disappointing compared to the GC-chassis era (pre 2002) cars. Each generation, the cars have gotten heavier, more sluggish, and less fun.
williaty wrote:Not hitting target boost also opens the possibility of the seals in the turbo going bad. I don't know wither you hadn't mentioned the boost issue yet or you I just missed it. TD04s aren't long-lived turbos, honestly. If the coolant seals in it are leaking, you'll get bubbles in the cooling system (which produce the symptoms you have) and the turbo will gradually get harder and harder to turn over time, resulting in a reduction in boost. I'd say this is less likely than the HG leak, but the fact that I now know you're not hitting proper boost leads me to at least consider this possibility.
williaty wrote:Quite a few turbo specialty shops bit it in the last recession. Turbos are a luxury item unless you're servicing GIANT ones for buses and ships.
If the car is programed with the correct wastegate duty cycles to run whatever your target boost is, and suddenly it's running less than target boost, that's a problem even if it's still making more than stock boost. When a car is programed with WGDCs that have been correct for a long time and suddenly the ECU has to increase the WGDC, or it maxes out the allowable WGDC increase and still can't make target boost, that indicates that something has physically gone wrong with the system and the efficiency of the turbo has changed.
In fact, since you have a Stage II tune in there, the fact that you have a catless uppipe and a catless downpipe would make you have MORE boost, not less, if you accidentally removed your Stage II tune with the accessport and were running a stock ROM.
williaty wrote:Only if you have all-stock hardware on the car. If you have Stage II hardware, which you said you did, then, no, the stock WGDC tables would actually cause the car to run WAY more than stock boost.
williaty wrote:It is extremely unusual that you got away with that. Basically everyone who tries it has boost spiking issues.
williaty wrote:Best "cheap" turbo for your hardware is the HTA68. Cheaper than a new TD04, better spool, better flow.
However, don't jump before they tell you what's for-sure wrong. Don't replace the turbo because it *might* be bad.
congochris wrote:Lee, don't feel too bad. I spent a stupid amount of time and money trying to troubleshoot an overheating problem on my Ranger before I finally gave up and decided to replace the stock dash gauge with an aftermarket gauge that hat numbers and stuff and figured out the dash gauge itself was pooched.
Seriously, three thermostats (successively lower temp) water pump (luckily in-warranty replacement on the part) the temp sensor, flush and fill kit, two or three flush and fills amongst the replacements, larger replacement radiator from a 4.0...
And we won't even get into the intermittent "limp mode" issue that I thought was due to overheating and ended up finally being figured out as a lack of engine to chassis ground of any kind on the damn thing. Intermittent thanks eventually to the aftermarket temp gauge that kept arcing to the dash randomly and grounding the engine, sparking and scaring bejeezus out of me (wow, better move that, that's dangerous!) and then limp mode beginning again... I've wondered if what toasted the dash gauge (temp and gas) wasn't the engine trying to ground through them.
So yeah. Automotively, you seem to have luck like mine.
Vicarious_Lee wrote:So I fuck up my alignment getting it towed (using dollys on the front wheels, of course) to the dealership,
Vicarious_Lee wrote:Will, far as I can tell, this whole thing was because I was an ass and never checked the overflow tank for like, a year. The car just slowly ran dry until it started sucking bubbles. Then, I drained all the coolant checking the thermostat and couldn't get the system burped out right.
Braxton wrote:Vicarious_Lee wrote:So I fuck up my alignment getting it towed (using dollys on the front wheels, of course) to the dealership,
WHAT THE FUCK?
They did not use a flatbed? They used dollys? On a WRX?
The real question is wither is going somewhere you don't have to give a crap about (small seep at a hose clamp, for example) or wither it's going somewhere that will eventually bite you in the ass. Only time will tell.
williaty wrote:The downside to the arrangement is that it's kind of a bitch to purge of air if you don't have the technique down.
Vicarious_Lee wrote:williaty wrote:The downside to the arrangement is that it's kind of a bitch to purge of air if you don't have the technique down.
Tell me about it.
From what I can see, now that I got the coolant filled up proper, the car (other than losing it's stage 2 programming) is behaving exactly as it always has. Perhaps a new radiator is in order, but I'm glad that this wasn't a freak thing where my HG was blown but the engine was acting fine and the oil and coolant wasn't contaminated.
I honestly had no idea the fact that I was told years ago I had a slow leak, and that I've been adding coolant to the overflow tank maybe 3 times a year for the last 3-4 years was a thing. I thought that's what they did because of the turbo cooling effect.
I relate to your frustrations and your "Well SHIT why didn't you mention that eariler!??!?!" and "UUUHHHH, I didn't think it was important....." more than you know.
Thanks again, and if my motor pops or any new developments I'll add it in this thread.
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