Making soap from scratch?

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Making soap from scratch?

Postby EvilTOJ » Mon Aug 22, 2011 4:59 pm

I don't know about you, but after a long day of killin' Nazi zombies I'll be dirty and smelly, and want to wash myself clean. I'm wanting to make my own soap bars from scratch, but I seem to be having trouble finding good newbie information. Oddly enough, I can't find any good soap making tutorials on ZS, which seems like something we'd do. Most recipes I've found online talk about the oils, lye or glycerine and then heating it somehow, but not going into details or what equipment I'd need. I'm looking for more basic instructions.

I want to know how to start from lye, fat, heat and scenting bits, and work up from there. I want to know about what a stick blender is, what on earth 'trace' means, proper care and handling of lye, should I have separate cooking ware, things like that. I saw a great article linked somewhere about makinglye from wood ash. I think I'll start with pre-made lye for now though, ;-) since I don't even have any wood ash to practice with anyway.
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Re: Making soap from scratch?

Postby ninja-elbow » Mon Aug 22, 2011 5:11 pm

Not sure if you've seen these guys yet (Cole Brothers) but I bookmarked them a few years ago as "my info source if I were to ever make soap". See if these guys help you out at all.

http://www.colebrothers.com/soap/
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Re: Making soap from scratch?

Postby TacAir » Mon Aug 22, 2011 11:19 pm

The FoxFire book series has several bits on soap making, and use of wood ash as a source for lye, making a wood ash cradle and so on.

USed bookstores often have the earlier volumns and thier is an on-line biblo for article - maybe at the FoxFire site...

Or just wait till there is a sale at Costco.....
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Re: Making soap from scratch?

Postby evil0rphan » Tue Aug 23, 2011 5:00 am

Love love LOVE the Foxfire series... And the soap making section (think it is right near the hog slaughtering section) took me back to my earliest memories when my family actually did that sort of thing.. but that was over 30 yrs ago, and all the folks that did it then are now gone.

And none of my remaining family even knows how to dry apples, or can beans.

Very important we as a society retain the old knowledge, as we may have to resort to it should modern methods fail...
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Re: Making soap from scratch?

Postby Shaper » Tue Aug 23, 2011 9:12 am

ninja-elbow wrote:Not sure if you've seen these guys yet (Cole Brothers) but I bookmarked them a few years ago as "my info source if I were to ever make soap". See if these guys help you out at all.

http://www.colebrothers.com/soap/

Nice link, ninja e!

I am actually inspired to try this out now. :mrgreen:
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Re: Making soap from scratch?

Postby CityGirlLost » Tue Aug 23, 2011 8:36 pm

EvilTOJ wrote:I want to know how to start from lye, fat, heat and scenting bits, and work up from there. I want to know about what a stick blender is,


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Immersion_blender

what on earth 'trace' means,


When you mix all that mess up and add the lye, it begins by being sort of soupy. As the lye starts to work, it takes on the consistency more like mashed potatos, and this thikening is what they call "trace", a stage in the process and generally when it is ready to go into molds or have other things added, depending on recipe.

That Cole Bros link seems pretty thorough as a newbie info spot, so perhaps your further questions will be answered there. If not, ask back :).
More important than anything is to learn well, totally well, proper usage of lye. It hurts, it has hurt children around curious about the process and watching or thinking to help.

Good wishes,
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Re: Making soap from scratch?

Postby gardener » Thu Sep 01, 2011 3:08 am

Go visit this forum for handcrafted soapmakers. Read it. Read their archives. You will learn a TON. http://www.thedishforum.com/forum/index.php?act=idx

For initial soap recipes, you may also want to visit Miller's soap pages. http://www.millersoap.com/

(Caution... despite what she says on those pages, do NOT use anything other than cosmetic grade colorants for soap. NO crayons! NO candle wax!)

(Double caution... make sure that the lye that you use for making soap is pure ("100%") sodium hydroxide. (In reality it would be 99.x%, even for food grade lye, but the label would say "100%".) Do not just grab any drain cleaner off the shelf! Many of them have aluminum or other metals in there - these are not suitable for soap. In fact, there are enough suppliers online who cater to soapmakers, that it is probably better to just bypass the drain cleaners and buy lye online.)

As for "trace".... when you first mix the lye and fats/oils, it is a liquid mixture and if you dribble some raw soap from your blender back into the pot, it will sink without a trace. Further on in the process, the raw soap starts to thicken and "set up", and if you dribble some back into the pot, it will leave a thin line (a "trace") before sinking back in. A little bit further on, and the whole pot starts taking on the consistency of pudding. By this time, if you are doing CP (Cold Process), you will want to pour into your molds (actually, preferably at thin trace, before the pudding stage, because otherwise you risk ending up with bubbles and air pockets in your soap). If you are doing HP (Hot Process), then you are doing all of this in a crockpot or otherwise in a heated pot, and you will continue on "cooking" the raw soap and eventually will get to a mashed potato stage. (I can't tell you anymore beyond that... I do CP soap, not HP.)

Oh.... one more thing (well, actually three). There is one soapmaking book out there whose author's name escapes me, which is full of dangerous errors. The worst error in that book is that she says (when mixing your lye solution) to add water to lye. WRONG! DANGEROUS! ALWAYS ADD THE LYE TO WATER - and do it slowly and carefully, a little bit at a time.

Always check over your recipes in a soap calculator (goggle is your friend). Make sure that you have at least 6% superfat or you risk making a harsh, even potentially skin dangerous, soap. (In reality, for many skin types, 6% is too harsh. Right now I am making my soap with at least 9% superfat.)

ALWAYS WEAR YOUR GOGGLES! Concentrated lye solution splashed in the eye will destroy your eye(sight) even quicker than concentrated acid. If you do, somehow, get lye splashed in your eye, get under a hose or shower or faucet ASAP and flush with water for at least 10-15 minutes (DO NOT POUR VINEGAR IN!). Then see a doctor asap.
Last edited by gardener on Thu Sep 01, 2011 3:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Making soap from scratch?

Postby connecticut_yankee » Thu Sep 01, 2011 3:15 am

ninja-elbow wrote:Not sure if you've seen these guys yet (Cole Brothers) but I bookmarked them a few years ago as "my info source if I were to ever make soap". See if these guys help you out at all.

http://www.colebrothers.com/soap/

That is a ridiculously awesome link. Thanks.
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Re: Making soap from scratch?

Postby gardener » Thu Sep 01, 2011 3:25 am

I just took a peek at that colebrothers link.

Using crayons for coloring soap? Um, NO.

Using a blender for making soap? Definitely NO. (Stickblender, YES. But not the kind of blender that they are using!)

Go visit the Dish forum. Seriously.

(And btw, for making CP soap, the widely accepted minimum cure time is 4 weeks, and that's presuming that you are not using a full amount of water (in which case you will probably need more time, 6-8 weeks) or that you aren't making a Castile type soap (in which case the recommended cure time is one YEAR). The cure time does two things: 1) the soap becomes more mild during that time, and 2) the soap loses excess moisture/water, thus becoming harder and therefore more durable. 3 weeks, for CP soap, really isn't quite long enough (though most soap makers will steal a scrap or two of soap to "try out" during that time).)
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Re: Making soap from scratch?

Postby connecticut_yankee » Thu Sep 01, 2011 3:27 am

Now I am confused and will continue to purchase Dial soap.


(Edit:
Why is using crayons or candle wax a poor idea when making soap? Is it toxicity concerns?
)
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Re: Making soap from scratch?

Postby EvilTOJ » Thu Sep 01, 2011 5:50 am

That thedish forum is NOT helpful for newbies. There's no beginners section or stickies, and the recipe section is for ... FOOD! Buh? It's designed more for people who actually know what they're doing, and that's not me. I found a lot more info on the millersoap.com website for getting started.
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Re: Making soap from scratch?

Postby gardener » Thu Sep 01, 2011 1:31 pm

@ connecticut_yankee - Yes, there is a lot to learn and it can be intimidating! However, commercial soap cannot begin to compare to a good handcrafted soap. Please don't give in and give up!

(I am something of a compulsive handwasher, and my hands simply cannot take commercial soaps. I HAVE to have my own handcrafted soap, especially in winter! That's the reason lots of soapmakers start - they, or someone in their family, has eczema/psoriasis/other skin issues, and the commercial soaps don't hack it. Years ago, before I started soapmaking, I was advised by a dermatologist to use Neutrogena soap. That stuff stinks and clogged my sinks, so when I discovered melt-and-pour soaps at the local craft store, I got into that. Melt and pour soap bases are themselves problematic (most if not all of them have detergents in them), and so from there I moved on to cold process soap making. The CP soaps I make are better than the melt and pour soaps that I made, which were better than the commercial soaps that I could get.)

Re crayons and candle wax as colorants - yes, there is a toxicity issue (and this was even before China started sending us toxic crayons!). Those colorants are not meant for human skin. There ARE lots of "cosmetic grade" colorants that are safe to use in soap and bath/beauty products. I like to use micas (NOT glitters), but the color range is somewhat limited there. Some people like to use dyes (I don't). Some people like to use "natural" colorants, which range from clays through herbs/spices to mineral pigments (which themselves have some hazards, particularly inhalant). Sometimes, by virtue of what you are making your soap with, you will have a default color (usually some shade of tan or brown). Avocado butter or oil, for example, can lend a green tinge to the soap, depending on how much of it is used.

Two suppliers that I use for mica colorants (they have others) : http://www.brambleberry.com and http://www.fromnaturewithlove.com (look under "skin care ingredients").

~*~*~
@ everyone:

Actually, being on a soapmaking forum IS helpful for newbies! :D

When I started making soap, I read the Miller's soap page, but I had lots of questions/fears, and I found a soapmaking forum (not the Dish) and joined it. The members there were very helpful and supportive. (I later moved to the Dish because it was a much more active forum.)

If you join the Dish, you ARE expected to do your homework (don't ask questions for which a simple search of the forum will yield you answers). However, if you did your search and can't find your answer (or don't understand something), then post your question (it helps to state that you searched but didn't find/understand), and someone will jump in there to help you. Just don't ask people to share their soap recipes with you - that is a MAJOR hot button that will bring the collective wrath of the forum down on you! (And yes, the recipes sub-forum is not about soap.)

That said, from time to time people DO post soap recipes on the forum - sometimes to ask people for advice on their recipe, sometimes to share that this is a simple recipe that makes good soap. Here are two such recipes from the Dish forum which I make fairly often:

1. 57% olive oil
33% coconut oil
10% cocoa butter

I prefer to make this at 9-10% superfat. I would recommend not using full water, so as to help it harden up quicker.

(A word of warning - lots of "extra virgin" olive oils have been found to be adulterated with cheaper oils, such as canola. (Apart from the illegality/dishonesty and ripoff issues, olive oil is more stable than the liquid oils that have been discovered as adulterants, such as canola oil. Canola and other oils are more prone to causing problems in soap.) Many soapmakers buy their olive oil from certain online suppliers, both for cost reasons, and also to ensure that they are getting olive oil as opposed to other cheaper oils. I only make soap for myself/family/friends, and use off-the-shelf "Star" olive oil, and thus far have not had any problems with it (even though from a scientific survey it is considered questionable wrt purity). Costco house brand (Kirkland?) extra virgin olive oil is supposedly okay. Extra virgin olive oil will give a greenish tinge to the soap; for that reason, I use extra light or light olive oil in most soaps.)

2. 75% coconut oil
25% cocoa butter

This recipe (a so-called "breaking the rules" recipe) is one that people either love or hate. You MUST make it at high superfat: 15%-20% superfat - otherwise the high percentage of coconut oil will make it a drying soap. (At the high superfat, it is a lovely soap. If you use unrefined cocoa butter (and don't use anything to scent the soap), it has a slight chocolately smell.)

A warning on coconut oil - it can be drying, and apart from that, some people have an allergic sensitivity to it (it makes them itch). You can substitute palm kernel oil instead, as it has very similar properties (a hard oil, good for bubbly lather, etc.) but does not cause problems for people with sensitivities. (Some people feel that it makes a milder/better soap than coconut oil.) You do need to recalcuate the weight of lye that you use. (I also advise you NOT to use unrefined virgin coconut oil - as it smells like coconut oil, and that smell can come through in the recipe on the 75% CO recipe, even if you are using essential or fragrance oils. Ask me how I know... :evil: )

If you do not have a soap calculator, here is a good one: http://www.soapcalc.net/calc/SoapCalcWP.asp

Plug in the weight of soap that you want to make, which oils at which %, what % superfat, and (if desired) what % lye solution you want to make (it defaults to full water). Click the calculate button, and then once it has calculated, click the view and print button, and it will pop up your recipe in weights for each ingredient.

There are many online suppliers of oils and butters for soapmaking. For palm oil and deodorized cocoa butter, I like http://www.brambleberry.com . For other oils and butters, I like http://www.mountainroseherbs.com .

Having mentioned essential and fragrance oils (EOs and FOs, respectively), that is a whole 'nother can of worms. Some fragrances are fine for candle making, but not for soap. There are lots of suppliers out there, but you need to check and make sure that their essential oil or fragrance oil is safe for soap or bath/beauty products. The typical rule-of-thumb is 0.5-1.0 oz per pound of oil (in the soap recipe), but that rule does not universally apply; some vendors of fragrance oils have their own rules as to usage rates (they make their EOs/FOs more concentrated??) so be sure to read the vendor info on safe usage rates. You will also probably need to experiment (or check the scent review board) to find what works best for you, for a particular fragrance. In general, none of these are safe applied directly to skin; all of them must be diluted in soap or whatever product you are making.

(While I absolutely love fragrance myself, I do have some concerns about the safety of habitually using it in everyday soap. The Dish forum members for the most part pooh-pooh this and claim that as soap is a "wash off" product, there should be no concerns. I have to dispute that; the soap may wash off, but frequently the scent lingers on your skin. Apart from that, there are issues with some essential oils, which may be sun sensitizing or which are unstable and degrade into carcinogens. In general, it is a good idea to buy your EOs/FOs from a reputable supplier who gets them freshly made, and to use them quickly when you get them. Also, do not store them in plastic (some vendors ship them in plastic to save shipping cost) - store them in brown glass.)

If you look at the acronyms list, or consult the Dish sub-forum on fragrance, you will probably find a ton of suppliers from which to purchase EOs or FOs. (For those that like peppermint, the best that I have ever found is the 2nd distillation of essential oil of peppermint, from brambleberry.com. It does tend to fade out (actually, outgas) while curing - a problem I have not yet solved - but it is the best smelling one. Regular essential oil of peppermint is very herbaceous and not at all like the candy/food peppermint scent most people are used to, and every peppermint fragrance oil that I have tried has made me gag.)

I hope all of this is of some help.

(edited for encouragement :) )
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Re: Making soap from scratch?

Postby mythic » Mon Oct 31, 2011 9:50 pm

If you can make a cake from scratch, then you can make soap from scratch. Making soap is very simple, but you MUST take extra care because of the safety issues around using lye/caustic soda.

I make my own soap, and my aunt makes and sells handmade soap. We both use the same basic recipe, although I'm about to start experimenting with more castille soap now that the babies are older and we're running low again :lol:

We use a mix of olive, coconut and palm oil. Natural colourants, like clays, and a mix of fragrances (Brambleberry work best for us - and yep, you can get it in Australia) and essential oils. My aunt also makes a goats milk soap by substituting the milk for the water in the lye mixture.

Basically, soapmaking works by mixing/melting your oils/fats together, mixing your lye solution (caustic soda and water, usually, I haven't tried making lye from wood ash yet), and then when both are at about the same temp - usually around 52-53 centigrade, you carefully mix them together and then mix till "trace" forms (the description above of the thin line that then sinks into the mix is a good one), add any colourants/scents, and then pour into your moulds and place somewhere safe for about 24 hours before cutting/unmoulding. This 24 hours is when the saponification happens, turning your mixture into soap. We use styrofoam boxes to put the moulds in so they are covered and slightly insulated while they set.

Leave it to dry for a minimum of 4 weeks. Where we are (subtropical Australia), it doesn't take much longer than this for most soap to dry well, even castille takes only between 2-3 months.

**please note** the above info is NOT directions on how to make soap. It's just to give you an idea of how it all works. Even though making soap is easy, it can also be dangerous, so make sure you have researched well before starting.

In commercial soapmaking, they remove the natural glycerine in the soaps by using a pressure method of saponification. They can then go on to sell us the glycerin as an added beauty product that will help 'our' dry skin, that is generally caused or made worse by 'their' soaps ;) handmade soap doesn't do this, which is why they are much gentler on your skin.

Soapmaking is also addictive. Be warned :D
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Re: Making soap from scratch?

Postby FiftySticks » Tue Nov 08, 2011 10:18 pm

My wife and I have made our own soap for a while now from veggie oils (olive oil and coconut oil primarily) and lye. The next time we whip up a batch I plan on taking detailed pics and posting a tutorial on ZS. It's really not that though.

What I haven't done yet is fashion my own lye from wood ash but I would love to try that too. When I do I will take notes and post that as well.

Because no one wants the zeds to smell them coming... :D
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