First post here. The subject of convex grinds lured me in. Since pretty much the only knives I bother using anymore are all convex grinds, I thought I'd share a few things based on my experience with them:
It is a total misconception, but a common one, that convex grinds are "hard to sharpen in the field." In fact, they are really quite easy, if
they are properly maintained, and if
you make sure that you are heading into the field with an already sharp knife (and really, shouldn't you be doing this regardless of the grind?). And, of course, this is all assuming you are sticking to the kind of tasks that are "proper" field knife tasks, and not doing some of the innapropriate and dumbass things that knives were never intended for, but that you see demonstrated by "experts" on the interwebs...
I have yet to find any reason to carry sandpaper or a mousepad, etc. in my pack while in the field, even on multi-day trips, though I may have those items with me back in my vehicle or basecamp (rarely needed). I carry a small leather strop in my pack, pre-loaded on each side with two different types of compound, in a zip-loc bag. And that's all. Fine grit sandpaper is really only for edges that need to be "brought back" from a more significant state of dullness, to be followed by stropping to finish the edge. For a convex edge that has just experienced some normal field wear, stropping is really all you need in my experience. Another advantage to ease of sharpening in the field with convex edges is that precise blade angle is not as critical as it is with conventional edges (hence many conventional edges inadvertently becoming convex over time...)
Full convex grinds make for an extremely tough edge (more steel behind the edge), and when combined with a high quality carbon steel like A-2 or CPM-3V, will maintain their edge integrity longer through hard field use than any other grind I have experience with. I honestly just don't find that I need to do that much sharpening with them in the field, other than a little strop touch-up now and then. Do the work at home, before
you head out into the field, and there is usually very little else to do, in my experience.
In addition, the notion that convex grinds are only useful for "hacking" or chopping tasks, indicates a misunderstanding, or lack of experience with them. As with any other type of grind, there is still a spectrum of blade thickness to be found, depending on the knife type. While thicker convex blades are an excellent choice for chopping, batoning, etc, a "thin" convex-ground blade is every bit as effective for finer, slicing tasks, and something in between is an ideal all-arounder. Convex grinds are, imo, superior for just about every type of field task there is, due to their inherent edge strength, geometry and ease of maintenance.
So, to answer the question, "Why in the fuck would you pay $150 for a knife with an edge you can't sharpen in the field without a leather pad and abrasive, or a mousepad and sandpaper, or all the things that are more complicated than a small $4 stone?:"
You CAN sharpen them in the field, and it's actually quite easy, with a little practice. And a piece of leather and some compound is hardly more expensive, or any more complicated, than a stone (and lighter, if you're backpacking). And there you have it.