Thankyou very much for that information Browning, I couldn't find it on the website, do you know how well this would bond to plastic? I ran acrossed some posts elsewhere that mentioned it seems to work fairly well, but clearly there will be no baking of plastic.
Yeah, sure. You're welcome.
Even if you just air dry Alumahyde II it's still a pretty tough finish, it's just better when you bake it.
For instance if you end up hitting it with gun scrubber (which is enough to melt some plastic mags and which will just melt a Krylon paint finish off the gun and all over your garage floor - Ask me how I know that last tidbit of information?
) after you've painted it with Alumahyde II and allowed it to cure the finish will still stay on your gun. You don't have to worry about it melting off like Krylon will.
I can't say that I've used Alumahyde II on any plastic/polymer rifle stocks personally, but I've seen the pictures of others who have done so and they've all come out fine and from what I've seen they seem to last. I remember seeing a few camo A-II finishes on various Glocks before on a few different gun forums (AR15.com I think) and they came out great.
With wood rifle stocks I've only done three so far and the finish has lasted on all three quite well.
The key with Alumahyde seems to be to...
- Degrease the firearm REALLY, REALLY well.
- Degrease it again for good measure.
- If you're putting it on wood go ahead and sand it some to get rid of any sub-surface oils that may still be there (especially on military surplus rifles where that crap is just slathered on in a large goop).
- Apply as much heat as you can after you spray it for an appropriate length of time (either with a hair dryer or in an oven).
- Patience is your friend : For instance if you're doing a camo finish then wait at least 2-3 days between colors (the first time I tried an Alumahyde camo finish I was in a hurry to finish and the two different colors kind of ran together creating a blob).
- If you're doing a Woodland, Flecktarn or Digital camo finish use female stencils/templates, they're much easier to work with and you won't have to try and peel them off your gun like you will with the male ones. All you have to do is hold the template up to the gun, point the can at the template about 8 inches away and spray evenly. No peeling stickers are involved (which is a pain in the ass).
Here's a video put out by Brownells on it.Brownells - Curing Techniques for Aluma Hyde II and Cerakote Video (*Click*)
Here's a link for female camo templates if a sheet of paper and a hobby razor aren't your thing and you intend on doing a camo finish.Bulldog Arms Camo Stencils (*Click*)
I ended up ordering the 'male' stencils and then I just stuck them onto a sheet of paper, cut them out with a hobby razor and created my own 'female' stencils and used that instead. That way you won't end up having to worry about overspray screwing anything up as a standard size sheet of paper is larger than the female stencils that Bulldog Arms sell (but they will work if you don't want to go through the trouble of cutting them out yourself).