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 Post subject: Aluma-Hyde II?
PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 1:57 am 
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Surprisingly, a search didn't show anything containing "Aluma-Hyde" on this forum! I'm sure most of you have heard of DuraCoat for firearms, it's very popular.

For those of you who don't know, Brownells has a similar product called Aluma-Hyde II. It's available in a spray can (for those of us who are lazy), and in a concentrated forumula meant for air guns (for those of us with patience and too much money :D).

Anyway, I've been thinking about spraying my 870 tactical with some Dark Earth colored Aluma-Hyde. I wanted to see if any of you guys have used it, and what the durability results are. I'm not afraid of a little chipping here and there over time, but if it flakes off after a short while I'm just going to have it dura-coated.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1117 ... DE_reg__II

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 Post subject: Re: Aluma-Hyde II?
PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 9:07 am 
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Meh. It works, just don't expect the finish to go to hell and back. It chips REALLY easy.

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 Post subject: Re: Aluma-Hyde II?
PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 9:20 am 
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I find that AHII is far more durable if you bake it. (Yes, you can bake it instead of air curing).


Metal prep is the most important step. Degrease and then degrease again. Follow the steps on the Brownells video and then stick it in an oven at 220 degrees or so for ~5 hours.

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 Post subject: Re: Aluma-Hyde II?
PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 9:25 am 
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Why not just use Dura-Coat?

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 Post subject: Re: Aluma-Hyde II?
PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 9:51 am 
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Kelvar wrote:
Why not just use Dura-Coat?

You have to mix paints. AH-2 is just a rattle can.

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 Post subject: Re: Aluma-Hyde II?
PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 10:19 am 
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Is this stuff to shinny for a good camo job?

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 Post subject: Re: Aluma-Hyde II?
PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 10:22 am 
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gravediggerfour wrote:
Is this stuff to shinny for a good camo job?

It is meh. I wouldn't use it on anything except plastic. I can't get the damn stuff off. Metal is so-so.

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 Post subject: Re: Aluma-Hyde II?
PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 10:25 am 
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nimdabew wrote:
gravediggerfour wrote:
Is this stuff to shinny for a good camo job?

It is meh. I wouldn't use it on anything except plastic. I can't get the damn stuff off. Metal is so-so.


So I should do like I do on the bike..... "Oh look I scratched the paint!" GD4 grabs rattle can....ssshhhhhhhhhh "BAM"

Regular rattle can it is I guess.

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 Post subject: Re: Aluma-Hyde II?
PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 1:38 pm 
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DavePAL is absolutely right, man.

If you bake it to heat-cure the finish, you get a MUCH more durable result than letting it air-cure.

Dura-Coat and GunKote are both the same way.

Bake them. Its worth the extra time.

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 Post subject: Re: Aluma-Hyde II?
PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 6:42 pm 
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Sweet guys, thanks. I think I can handle baking the slide.

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Paramedics must have been pissed! trying to lift that guy onto the gurney with his massive brass stones weighing everything down.

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 Post subject: Re: Aluma-Hyde II?
PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2010 10:47 am 
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If I may, is it required to remove the blueing if one was to use Aluma-Hyde 2 on a short shotgun barrel? I know I could go to the website but thought an answer from those who have used it may be more usefull.

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 Post subject: Re: Aluma-Hyde II?
PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2010 12:37 pm 
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Turtlewolf wrote:
If I may, is it required to remove the blueing if one was to use Aluma-Hyde 2 on a short shotgun barrel? I know I could go to the website but thought an answer from those who have used it may be more usefull.

No, it isn't required.

Just degrease it REALLY well. Spraying it off with CRC carburetor cleaner ($3 something a can) and then after that dries wiping it off really well with acetone and a clean rag (that doesn't have any oil on it) of some sort are what I've used and that's always worked well.

If you can't bake it (some barrels like on a shotgun or a rifle just aren't going to fit into a standard oven in your home) an alternative is hanging it by a coat hanger or some other piece of metal in your garage and hitting it with a hair dryer for about 10-20 minutes after you spray the paint on. It's not quite a good as baking it, but it'll provide better results than letting it air dry and it heats up pretty good and the finish will be more durable as a result.

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 Post subject: Re: Aluma-Hyde II?
PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2010 2:23 pm 
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Thankyou very much for that information Browning, I couldn't find it on the website, do you know how well this would bond to plastic? I ran acrossed some posts elsewhere that mentioned it seems to work fairly well, but clearly there will be no baking of plastic.

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 Post subject: Re: Aluma-Hyde II?
PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2010 3:08 pm 
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Turtlewolf wrote:
Thankyou very much for that information Browning, I couldn't find it on the website, do you know how well this would bond to plastic? I ran acrossed some posts elsewhere that mentioned it seems to work fairly well, but clearly there will be no baking of plastic.

Turtlewolf

Yeah, sure. You're welcome.

Even if you just air dry Alumahyde II it's still a pretty tough finish, it's just better when you bake it.

For instance if you end up hitting it with gun scrubber (which is enough to melt some plastic mags and which will just melt a Krylon paint finish off the gun and all over your garage floor - Ask me how I know that last tidbit of information? :wink: ) after you've painted it with Alumahyde II and allowed it to cure the finish will still stay on your gun. You don't have to worry about it melting off like Krylon will.

I can't say that I've used Alumahyde II on any plastic/polymer rifle stocks personally, but I've seen the pictures of others who have done so and they've all come out fine and from what I've seen they seem to last. I remember seeing a few camo A-II finishes on various Glocks before on a few different gun forums (AR15.com I think) and they came out great.

With wood rifle stocks I've only done three so far and the finish has lasted on all three quite well.

The key with Alumahyde seems to be to...
  • Degrease the firearm REALLY, REALLY well.
  • Degrease it again for good measure.
  • If you're putting it on wood go ahead and sand it some to get rid of any sub-surface oils that may still be there (especially on military surplus rifles where that crap is just slathered on in a large goop).
  • Apply as much heat as you can after you spray it for an appropriate length of time (either with a hair dryer or in an oven).
  • Patience is your friend : For instance if you're doing a camo finish then wait at least 2-3 days between colors (the first time I tried an Alumahyde camo finish I was in a hurry to finish and the two different colors kind of ran together creating a blob).
  • If you're doing a Woodland, Flecktarn or Digital camo finish use female stencils/templates, they're much easier to work with and you won't have to try and peel them off your gun like you will with the male ones. All you have to do is hold the template up to the gun, point the can at the template about 8 inches away and spray evenly. No peeling stickers are involved (which is a pain in the ass).

Here's a video put out by Brownells on it.

Brownells - Curing Techniques for Aluma Hyde II and Cerakote Video (*Click*)

Here's a link for female camo templates if a sheet of paper and a hobby razor aren't your thing and you intend on doing a camo finish.

Bulldog Arms Camo Stencils (*Click*)

I ended up ordering the 'male' stencils and then I just stuck them onto a sheet of paper, cut them out with a hobby razor and created my own 'female' stencils and used that instead. That way you won't end up having to worry about overspray screwing anything up as a standard size sheet of paper is larger than the female stencils that Bulldog Arms sell (but they will work if you don't want to go through the trouble of cutting them out yourself).

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